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Messages - Mads Barnkob

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981
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 07, 2017, 04:00:54 PM »
That explains pretty well why it exploded :)

.68 = 0.68 uF
K = 10% tolerance
63 = 63 VDC

You need capacitors rated for at least 400 VDC in the primary circuit.

982
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 07, 2017, 03:02:18 PM »
Okay, that is good, what just not possible to see in the pictures :)

You have to double check your circuit to the schematic then, also use some larger capacitors for the primary circuit.

983
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 07, 2017, 02:26:13 PM »
Your heat sinks are floating at MOSFET Drain potential, if they touch each other you will have short circuits or other conditions where your bridge will not be able to oscillate properly. So if they are all mounted on those two steel bolts going through the side of the box, that is your first problem to fix.

Also, ground that box as the first thing, to save yourself from getting shocked if there is any other wrong wiring.

984
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 07, 2017, 08:41:25 AM »
You actually managed to blow up the DC blocking capacitor in series with the primary circuit?

It looks like a regular MKP (polypropylene) capacitor, which is the right type to use, but it is rather small.

It is very hard to see in your picture what is what, could you please upload some more detailed pictures of your whole setup, test and coil etc.

985
Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils / Re: Futurist's DRSSTC1
« on: June 05, 2017, 09:10:02 AM »
Great idea with a CPU cooler on that huge copper piece, that will definitely works better than most large heat sinks, for a DRSSTC :)

When you redo your secondary coil, you should get a brass bolt to conduct the current to the topload, instead of a very lossy steel bolt. Another thing, is the steel bolt going all the way through the end cap? If it is, you risk internal flash over to the inside of the secondary coil and that could potentially punch through the plastic and burn up your coil from the inside. Scroll down to the bottom of the secondary coil design article to see pictures of this: http://kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/tesla-coils/drsstc-design-guide/secondary-coil/

986
General chatting / Re: ElectroBOOM - MOT
« on: June 05, 2017, 09:02:28 AM »
KREOSAN is properly the most crazy, they do not go out of the way for doing absolutely dangerous stuff, especially the huge amounts of using their own bodies as conductors.


987
Could you check the control-loop some?

If I am not mistaken, the supply ignite a arc in the laser tube.

arcs are known for needing specialized controllers (output capacitors won't do you much good, output inductor should do the trick e.t.c.)

I can not do any additional information gathering on this, its all scrapped now. But to start with there was only one circuit board, if you look at the 7th picture in the original post, you can see a empty spot on the mounting place and some snapped wires, a whole circuit board backplane was sitting there, but all the cards were missing.

988
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 05, 2017, 08:56:18 AM »
Yes, you can test the driver with MOSFETs connected to the secondary side of the GDT and with no power on the bridge. That is better than making a resistive load on the GDT just for testing.

Polarity of the primary side of the GDT does not matter, it only matters that the polarity of the MOSFETs are opposit so that it switches the correct MOSFETs on to lead current through the primary coil.

I know I wrote on the schematic that disconnecting the interrupter made it run in CW mode, but other people have had problems recreating this behavior, so to run CW mode you have to keep the UCC driver ICs enabled, check the datasheet of your drivers if you have to pull it to GND or +12V to keep them on all the time.

989
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 04, 2017, 11:56:15 AM »
While I wait for my variac, capacitor and UCCs to arrive I've decided to use a metal box (painted) to house everything. I suppose I have to avoid the the Tesla coil from striking it's driver & bridge  and from it's the EM field So I assume that everything should be insulated. Is there anything I should be aware on the enclosure? Like grounding and etc.

In Mads post I see that there is a metal sleeving on the secondary and another wire, is it due to the fact that one connects to mains ground and the other to "ground" or the striking rod?

I also have some questions regarding the audio interrupter. I see that it uses a 9v supply which I assume I can get a separate power source or a step down circuit for that right?


Edit: Does polarity matter in the GDT? If so how do I determine :/

You should ground everything to the same ground point, in a star ground manner, just google "star ground".

It is correct that I had a black wire going to house mains ground, but today I would not do that again! The copper mesh sleeves goes to a strike target that I used for measuring spark length, so it is just everything grounded together. I believe its better to make a artificial ground from aluminium foil, kitchen foil, to cover a whole table where the Tesla coil stands on top, instead of using house ground.

I think I just used a 7809 regulator for the audio interrupter supply. From the 12VDC supply for everything else.

Polarity is very important in a GDT, its a regular transformer. You need to drive the MOSFETs with opposite polarity to make it switch any current into the primary circuit. Before you wind the transformer, mark all the wires black in the same end, then when you twist the individual wires to a stand-alone winding, you have a black mark on one of the ends.

If you take a look at my DRSSTC1, you can find this picture of the GDT:

990
General chatting / Re: registering at pocket magic
« on: June 03, 2017, 06:08:28 PM »
I do not think that you can register, it used to be open to comment, as I do not have a user, but I commented here last year: http://www.pocketmagic.net/introduction-to-cc2541/#comments

I will send Radu a email and ask him about it, he can come here and reply himself :)

991
Transformer (iron core) / MOVED: ElectroBOOM - MOT
« on: June 02, 2017, 11:22:41 AM »

992
General chatting / Re: ElectroBOOM - MOT
« on: June 02, 2017, 11:21:52 AM »
I like Photonicinduction much more, electrobooms repeating sketches was fun for the first while when you were not quite sure if he was serious or not :)


993
Smart phones / Sony Xperia ZX Premium (960FPS / 720p / 5 seconds)
« on: June 01, 2017, 01:53:25 PM »
From Techradar review, the part about the slow motion filming: http://www.techradar.com/reviews/sony-xperia-xz-premium-review/3

Quote
There are three different slow motion modes to choose from. The entry-level Slow Motion option records at just 120fps, but gives you the added benefit of applying the slow motion effect after recording your video.

This means you can pinpoint the exact moment you want to slow down after filming, without having get the timing just right when shooting live.

The other two modes, Super Slow (one-shot) and Super Slow Motion, require you to capture your snippet of 960fps footage while recording – you can’t edit the slow motion section of your video afterwards.

Super Slow (one-shot) makes things easy, as all you do is tap the shutter key once and the XZ Premium will capture a five-second clip at 960fps. This does mean you don’t get any normal-speed video either side of your clip, but you’re likely to get a better slow motion result.

The Super Slow Motion mode is the full package. Select it and hit record and you’ll be filming at 720p, but an extra button is included on-screen – tap this at any point while you're recording and the XZ Premium will grab a quick super-slow-motion clip before immediately resuming normal-speed recording.

It can be difficult to time the right moment when in Super Slow Motion mode, so we’d recommend sticking to the one-shot option.

The slow-motion footage is recorded at 720p, so clarity can suffer – especially in low light and indoors, where results are generally grainy. Head outside though, and in good light the Sony Xperia XZ Premium produces the best slow-motion footage of any smartphone on the market.

Demonstration

Also another video of slow motion test:
/>
It seems that the last couple of years stand-alone high speed cameras like FPS1000 and Chronos 1.4 are getting a price worthy competitor, this phone comes at 40-50% of the price, has lower recording resolution, has much reduced recording time (who needs more then 5s for slow motion?), lacks the excellent interfaces for experiments that are found on the Chronos and there is of course also a issue with no threaded stand option, no other lenses etc.

But if you were looking for a new phone anyway, but also wanted a high speed camera, this is really a hard deal to beat. I can only hope that this will make FPS1000/Chronos 1.4 developers step up their game and achieve higher frame rates at 1080p than 1000fps.

994
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: June 01, 2017, 10:57:14 AM »
Unfortunately the UCC driver ICs are expensive, but they are also some of the best that was available when Steve Ward made the universal driver 1.3, maybe there are better and cheaper alternatives today, but just not pin compatible, one of the costs lies in the enable input, not all drivers got this.

The DSO138 has a low sampling rate and should not be used for signals over 100 kHz, so it has some real limitations, but it is also cheap, but you should be able to build a SSTC with help from it :)

I suggest that you use the 35A bridge rectifier, because of the poor power factor of a SSTC, the 10A might get too hot.

Variac is perfect, variacs can even be overloaded by 300% for some minutes :)

995
Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils / Re: Futurist's DRSSTC1
« on: June 01, 2017, 10:37:09 AM »
You have implemented some nice solutions and also got some good tools available, I am envy at having a laser cutter at disposal :)

The laminated primary supports was a good solution, I like that, I mounted my own with nylon bolts through from the underside of the primary coil base

Do you have any additional heat sink than the slab of copper? I like it though, its nontraditional and a DRSSTC really only needs fast thermal transfer and not a huge heat sink for a average large power dissipation. Good choice.

I will add your coil to the list of proven IGBT switching speeds at my website :)

Did you experiment with higher coupling between primary/secondary, something like 0.15 maybe. The recommended coupling from JavaTC is based on SGTC. You could saw a hole where the secondary sits and lower it that way?

Are you sure that it is tuned to best performance? When running off a regular interrupter and not MIDI, how long on-time do you use for the longest sparks? JavaTC has the maximum time for energy transfer calculated to 50 uS, I am not sure if its at 200% or 300% of this figure that should indicate that its not tuned properly.

Overall, great result that also looks good :)

996
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: May 31, 2017, 12:38:31 PM »
Ah thanks! I just burnt my UCC3732Xs so I guess I will get back when I get my replacement

Edit: And also does that mean the interrupter does not require another power in?

I had it all mounted in the same enclosure, as you can see in the pictures on my website, they shared the same 12V 2000mA power supply.

997
Electronic circuits / Re: Royer induction heater
« on: May 31, 2017, 12:18:32 PM »
You have some good surface area on the MMC to take away some heat from the capacitors and also low losses due to minimized skin effect. Good that current sharing is also taken care of by insuring a almost even current path from connection points to all capacitors.

It is better for the heat transfer from MOSFET to heat sink that it is mounted directly onto the heat sink without insulating pads, so I just mounted the heat sinks with acryllic or other plastic material to keep them floating with each MOSFET. I would also advise against painting the heat sinks, unless its with a special heat conducting paint, I have seen that used in some motor drives, but I doubt it has any insulating properties.

998
Solid state Tesla coils / Re: Attempting the Kaizer sstc II
« on: May 31, 2017, 10:59:13 AM »
All arrows pointing up with a voltage reference, if the number is the same, they share the same supply, it is just to make it easier to draw the schematic without too many crossing lines :)

As futurist points out, it is important to have a load connected to the MOSFET driver ICs, if they are running open loop they can oscillate at a very high frequency and burn themselves down. Connect the GDT and also connect the MOSFET gates to the secondary side of the GDT, this way you will have a more realistic waveform to check.

I normally use a simple 555 timer or a signal generator for the feedback circuit/antenna to test the driver alone.

999
It might even be a lower dissipation per transistor as the maximum input current is listed to 60 Ampere for the CR-18 and maximum tube discharge current to 50 Ampere

1000
I found a Coherent CR-18U power supply which from the front panel looks like a 0-100VDC 0-70A linear power supply.

It is a unit from 1979 and has a large 3 phase stepdown transformer to 120VAC and the linear regulation is handled by a massive array of water cooled transistors.

It is a power supply for the Coherent CR series Argon lasers: http://www.laserinnovations.com/coherentlaser_crseries_LaserInnovations.htm

I think this is more for historic purposes and show'n'tell, than ever to get it running again, its not in a good shape. So I salvaged the meters, some electronics and the water cooled heat sink. Rest was simply not worth keeping or too damaged from the rough handling when it was delivered to scrap.

The RCA 67339 transistors are unfortunately also impossible to find data on, looks like it is a custom marking

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