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Messages - DICKEYBIRD

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1
I just checked & I have the-PD18's as well.  I sure hope they keep on working.  I tried one un-modded PS in several different locations in the series but nothing worked so I modded the 3rd one & all seems to work well with no voltage fluctuations, beeps, etc.  I think the motor I ran in the test pulled maybe 6A or so & the PS fans speeded up somewhat a couple times.  I can't answer your DC floating questions because I'm definitely not electrically knowledgeable...just a 71 year old auto dealer service guy & self-trained weekend machinist/tinkerer that surfs the web & youtube for electrical help.  Maybe somebody here can enlighten us?

2
Hiya hightemp.  I did the isolation mod on all 3 of my PS's and got over 36v.  I tried leaving 1 of them un-modded as suggested elsewhere but it wouldn't work.

As far as how well they work under load for long periods, I can't say yet as my IH project had to be put on hold due to some paying machining work.  I did run a 36VDC motor with it for an hour or so & it worked fine.

I hope to finish up the project soon.  I can't wait to see it work! :)

3
Great info, thanks all!  Never even considered the water direction issue; thanks Pete.  Due to enclosure space issues, I'm using a 1 qt. distilled water tank for the aluminum auto heater core fitted with 2, 12V muffin fans and a water pump.  I'm hoping that will be enough but if it isn't, I'll add an additional external 1 gallon tank.

I'm using this cool little thermostat to read coolant temp & switch on the fans when needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019I3YCFS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This speed control for the pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TH4EN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this "wattmeter" to monitor power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753DPC2D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4
One comment & one question please:

1) For anyone that's building a power supply using 3 or 4 of the HP server PS's like Mads showed in his video...go ahead & isolate all of them as he did.  I read on a couple posts elsewhere that it's a good idea to leave one of them unmodified.  I tried that & it didn't work.  The last one in the series would initially turn on then shut down after a few seconds.  I then did the isolation mod & all is good.  Whew, no magic smoke was released!

2) Question:  Since there is an excess of power available with the 3 (or 4) x 750W PS's, would it be OK  to run my radiator 12v cooling fans and water pump from one of them?  I haven't measured the total power usage but I'm thinking about .5A total for the 2 fans & maybe 1 to 3A for the w/s washer pump I'm using.  Is it unwise to do it that way?  A noob question for sure! :-[

5
Thank you Pete; I have some on the way now.  That should check one more thing off the list of magic smoke releasers on this project! ;)

6
Very informative video Pete; thanks for taking the time to put it together & post it!  I'm itching to get mine going but unfortunately I haven't had time to work on it much lately.  A neighbor brought me a some more machining jobs to do for his company in my spare time.  The ol' hobby machine shop can always use the influx of cash!

Where did you find the braided fiberglass sleeve you have on your work coil?

7
Great video Pete, thanks for posting!  From what you've discovered so far, do you think  it's possible to heat smaller pieces to high temps without making a smaller work coil?  Or do smaller pieces just take longer with less power?  The intended use of my 1800W unit is the hardening of O-1 tool steel stock -  (approx. 1/4" to 1/2" dia, 1" to 2" long)  Maybe a "focusing" coil or device to position inside the existing coil? 

Again, thanks for your enlightening videos!
Milton

8
Thanks fellows for the learned advice!  I'll clip those wires since it will be less likely for my Klutzy self to short out something important.  I think I will leave 1 of the 3 PS's un-modded...that fits my laziness perfectly; only one more to go!

The project is coming along pretty well. I was able to remove the original MOSFET screws & replace them with M3 SHSC's so that they could be torqued with a cut-down allen wrench without de-soldering any parts for access.  The screws on the DC terminals were replaced with SHSC's as well so they could be tightened properly.

I "dumpster-dived" a dead automotive battery charger at my day job recently.  After stripping out the old dead Chinese electronic parts, I am now installing some (hopefully not-so-dead) new Chinese parts.  I procured a small, cheap auto heater core and am installing it behind the louvered side panel on the charger case with a couple 12V PC fans for cooling, a small 12V pump & a 1 gallon can of distilled water.  I should have everything needed for the IH in one neat package that can be rolled around the shop & stored easily when not being used.

I'm scrounging around now for some wire & switches to finish it up next weekend & if it works I'll post up some pics & maybe a video.

9
Happy Saturday gents!  I joined this morning and posted a question about an induction heater PS.

I am 71 years old and  live in Collierville, TN USA.  I'm not very knowledgeable in the electronics field but am fascinated with what you guys do and love reading about your many projects! I am a hobby machinist and lifelong tinkerer with a teeny bit of knowledge about a lot of different things.

Cheers! :)

10
'Morning all & Happy Saturday!  Newbie here. :)

Today I'm working on a PS for my recently purchased 1800W unit.  After seeing Mads videos, I obtained some HP DPS-750RB PS's and am performing the isolation mods as I type this.  I understand everything except for what to do with the ground pigtail that was captured under the of longer of the board mount screws.  Should it be clipped off & discarded or reinstalled under the nylon insulator?

I noticed on another forum that it's recommended to leave one of the series connected PS's un-modded (not isolated) but Mads modifies all 3 in his video.  It looks like either way will work but is one preferred over the other?

(Edited to add another query)
All the mosfet mount screws were completely loose (.5mm gap between it and heatsink!)  Is the white "paint" on the face of the mosfet enough of a heatsink compound or should I add some?

...and thanks for what you guys do here!  I have nothing to offer electronically but I am a hobby machinist & and lifetime tinkerer. :)

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