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Messages - Bradselph
Pages: [1]
1
« on: January 25, 2021, 07:38:55 PM »
Awesome what's the coil form size? I'm trying to get a better idea of the size because to me some coils look smaller or larger than they would be in person.
I'm curious about the power supply as well, are they Microwave transformers? 2 look to be the rare radar range transformers?
2
« on: October 19, 2020, 01:53:01 AM »
The hiccups are definitely the spark gap i got a good look at what was happening a few nights ago
I have the spark gap setup with another gap in series to help quenching as without it the arcs would trail half way around the disc and i remade the gap and placed the gaps next to each other and using a squirrel cage fan to blow on both the gaps at once to help quenching it work better but now that im adding more power i started to get what i thought was more trailing arcs but thats not what was happing the spark gap is actually using the hot air the fan is blowing to power arc about 4" between each gap.
I'll get a few pictures of most of my setup before i fix the spark gap. Its a low budget build so its kinda embarrassing compared to most but the spark length im getting and the good words of encouragement leads me to believe you guys wont pick on me too much
I will also say the power supply is definitely on edge of destruction as evident in alot of my videos you can see the transformers arcing to there core when the coil strikes the bottle caps and thats mostly the reason for locating the capacitor under the coil itself instead of beside it like used before in crates making the capacitor on a rolling platform was the best way to move the mass weight of them without killing my back
Another note worth mentioning is the beers caps are almost a year old now and ive broken maybe 6-8 for various reasons none of them have lost any capacitance all still hover about 0.9 to 1.2nf each
I will say ive learned what works and doesnt work by trying and failing alot so the things ive found to work are what you see
I fixed the Instagram and definitely agree to upload onsite as well for archive reasons I'll try to get picture's and a diagram for you guys soon
4
« on: September 23, 2020, 09:03:56 AM »
6.6 Secondary Coil 24AWG Wire 28" with a 7"x23" Topload 58nf beer bottle capacitors with a 11 turn 1/4" copper tubing primary coil. the spark gap is a harbor freight special grinder with a 8" disc cutout with 8 1/4" brass bolts speed varied by variac 110v input seems to be the sweet spot Power supply is made of 4 1kw 120v Microwave Transformers in banks of 2 for 240v input with 4800v out and mid point grounded then parrelled each to double the current to about 1.8amps at 4800v then half wave multiplied to 9,600v. and a 5th 1kw microwave core with primary removed only secondary remains to be used as a charging choke to save the diode bank from kickback and also give the capacitor a flyback charging effect to 19kv there is no smoothing capacitor so its 120hz pulsed DC so far longest measured strike has been 72" Hopefully this is a better amount of lighting for you guys. I updated my grinder spark gap and have yet to enclose it for safety but I took that risk as I have with running this thing period.
5
« on: July 28, 2020, 10:33:09 PM »
Good results from a coil running on bottle capacitors.
Your NST will for sure out perform that MOTs, if you upgrade your resonant capacitors to MKP film type. I think the lossy bottle capacitors simply works better at high current/low voltage, compared to what you have with the higher voltage/lower current of the NST.
Try to use some kind of direct light on the coil itself when recording sparks at night, as long as the background remains dark you will get much better video of both coil and sparks.
Thanks for the lighting tip, I usually leave 1 light on but that night it wasn't agreeing with staying on either feedback in the line or justthe coil all I have is florescent lights unless I setup a light just for the coil I'll probably use a 8 foot tube near the coil like I did with my 4" coil. I also got a better camera now and have yet to setup for another run. The capacitors are definitely a big loss with the neon transformers mostly because the higher initial voltage causing alot more corona I see maybe half glow from the bottles when using my microwave setup Which brings me to a question regarding paralleling the neon transformers while scratching my head wondering why the output was so disappointing besides the obvious thoughts I decided to use a cheap clamp meter over the secondary output a tested the short circuit current of each transformer separately and the together All are franceformer 12kv 60ma marked units so I should have 180ma once parrelled I'm assuming So here's the measurments NST#1 output to output measures 58ma output to core both measure 57-58 NST#2 output to output measures 38ma output to core measures 40ma and about 37ma NST#3 output to output measures 60ma output to core both measure 60ma Putting NST#1&2 together wired parrelled gives me both output legs 58-60ma even to ground measures the same for each output shouldn't it at least be -+100ma? I didn't even add the 3rd one because it got late and I was stumped on this #1&2 are a both the same age and come from the same source serial numbers are within a couple units of each other now #3 s alot newer looking and still doesn't have any gfi but newer came from a different source NST#1 the tag is riveted still but #2 is screws obviously not factory is it possible I have a 12kv 30ma unit? and somone placed another tag on it? Or is the output just suffering from a coil going bad?
6
« on: July 27, 2020, 08:23:52 PM »
6.6" OD PVC form Winding 28" of #24AWG Magnet Wire Primary is 0.25 Copper tubing 11 turns 3 Microwave transformers to 68nf bottle caps 7" x 24" topload overall height 60" targets on the side are about 65" away from center of topload have 3 12kv 60ma franceformer transformers for this coil but performance was disappointing compared to the brute power of the microwaves not much changed from the 4" coil besides the increase in bottle caps and how i setup the coil on top of the bottles 70 total in a 7x10 layout. anything i didn't mention just ask
7
« on: May 30, 2020, 10:14:21 PM »
Bradselph beat me to it, Steve's website and a number of other coil websites are on the wayback machine.
https://web.archive.org/web/20180908041352/http://stevehv.4hv.org/ccps1.htm
I use it all the time when I'm reading something and it references another webpage that's long gone. i wouldn't have gotten as far as i have without the waybackmachine.
8
« on: May 30, 2020, 07:08:49 PM »
I’m constantly using the waybackmachine ever since I started anything high voltage and constantly see more sources disappear or turn into spam websites https://archive.org/web/
9
« on: May 06, 2020, 12:38:56 PM »
Well i made i decided to wire it up to 240v instead of 120. now past few times ive done this has lead to almost instant death of the transformers almost every time. i think i figured out why and have corrected my mistakes and now i made it to 4' i tried for a bit longer but dew started to settle and the safety gap would arc and not stop unless i powered it off at first i thought i had another failure but it was just the safety gap arcing a flame now after several longer runs maybe 2+ minutes the transformers need cooling and i actually popped a beerbottle cap
10
« on: May 04, 2020, 12:58:10 PM »
Thank you
I noticed that the price difference wasn’t to bad that’s what brought up the question
I’ll definitely invest a few more dollars in just to get the better reliability’ as I have a bad habit of pushing things to the limit and then over it thinking it might handle it 😬
11
« on: May 04, 2020, 01:23:32 AM »
after ordering my neon transformers i started shopping around for a proper protection circuit for them and have had one question arise and it comes to the power resistors used in the terry filter
seems the aluminum cased ones are everywhere yet the the long tube type ones are not.
would there be any reason to choose one over the other?
i thought about a series connection of say 4 25watt 250ohm aluminum housed resistor to equal 1kohm and it extend the length to help with possibility of a flash over.
does that sound plausible?
12
« on: May 03, 2020, 10:06:08 PM »
i could see heat doing that as well not just gases
13
« on: May 03, 2020, 12:45:33 AM »
What would be the long term effects if left unprotected?
Would it just cause it to be brittle like a old pipe that was beat on by the weather?
14
« on: May 02, 2020, 11:30:23 PM »
Well I have the pole barn but sadly it’s full of junk 🤣
I’ve thought about adding a precisely placed air vent to my grinder box to help with airflow over the spark gap somehow I may try some other enclosure for it as when I added more power to it by making my own transformers I get a lot of trailing arcs that sound like a sputtering jet engine having a bad day
And it clearly effects the quenching and spark length
It used to take me about 30 minutes to 45 minutes to setup when I first started experimenting with it but after several rainouts I started makings everything modular and now it takes about 10 minutes to setup and go The biggest problem is the beer bottle caps and best solution I found was milk crates they hold 25 bottles each and are 12”x12” but quick connections on them made it simple to add or remove a crate
15
« on: May 02, 2020, 10:45:06 PM »
I’ve removed a little more material from the rotor and got the motor to sync better now and it seems to hold it without the surging and beating like before so now I have to make a better mount to hold the assembly then try it out if weather permits
As many have said before and I quickly realized as well it will rain every time I plan to setup for a run 😄
16
« on: May 01, 2020, 08:38:38 PM »
figured id share what i been wrecking havoc with for the last 6+ months  47" strike to grounded target without breakout point its a 4.25" secondary wound with #22 awg wire 24" winding had enough wire for a 6" form but i wasn't sure about what material to use and until this week this project has only cost the wire and a harbor freight grinder on sale for $9.99  its been hit by a streamer and still kicking but the money spending as just got serious as Ive purchased 3 x 12kv 60ma NSTs looking for a 4th one still and working on trying to move away from the bottle caps but these things are just ridiculously bullet proof so far Ive only cracked 1 and it was caused by a rogue wire creating a hot spot Ive had a lot of trial and error with just about every part possible so far Ive tried too many different type of spark gaps and only 1 has impressed me and actually survived my abuse and that has been the angle grinder its even exploded from a brass electrode deciding it wanted to leave at over 200mph luckily i had enclosed the rotor with 1/2" MDF board so when things went south the wood did its job and stopped deadly projectiles at the cost of itself Ive also been working on a synchronous motor with a 11" disc and i finally got it to impress me enough to start improving it and get it to actually be "synchronous" since i rushed assembly on it it surges too much but i can get it to lock on by pulsing the power switch for it a couple times so its a lot quieter than the angle grinder and until i tweaked it a little bit i wasn't impressed with it at all almost tossed it until it randomly got in time i guess and started almost matching the spark length of the grinder and it peaked my interest enough that I'm gonna rebuild it the right way and not rush it my biggest gain in spark length was when i decided to add add 4 more flying electrodes to the grinder for a total of 8 and a large 3/8" aluminum diamond plate under the coil to act as a counterpoise to see if it would help with grounding since the sandy soil is most likely not the best even though i soak the area near the ground rod about 30 minutes before a run
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