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Messages - ritaismyconscience
1
« on: June 07, 2023, 05:04:43 AM »
Well, I am back on this forum again after several years...
Anyways, I found the guts of this Spellman high voltage power supply in the garbage, and it seems like everything should work. All the power components test fine with a multimeter. The only problem is that the front panel (with all the controls) is missing and someone took all the screws holding the power components together.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it working again? There seems to be some interface on the back for connecting to a computer. I might have to just bite the bullet and design my own controller. From looking at their manuals it seems like something similar to an SLR inverter is used.
2
« on: December 10, 2020, 04:05:36 AM »
You could buy one from aliexpress and pay express shipping, though those boards don't have phase lead (you'll have to build a small circuit for that)
3
« on: November 18, 2020, 12:34:28 AM »
I found this circuit online and I might want to build it as I would like a high power low voltage adjustable supply. Original website: http://danyk.cz/reg60v_en.htmlIt runs off 220V so I'll probably need a doubler as I'm in a 110V country. Circuit looks reasonable and it looks like everything should work. (There's no power factor correction though). Is there any advantage to using two transistors like this instead of in a half bridge? I guess it makes the gate drive stuff easier, but are there any other advantages? I built the control circuit part for this thing already, anything I should watch out for when I build the power part?
4
« on: November 16, 2020, 07:44:13 AM »
It would be nice if you could share the schematic for the phase lead part. Using a simple inductor and resistor seems to have a quite a few issues. The main issue is that it seems to be dependent on the current going through the coil, so at low currents it might work fine but it might fail at higher currents. It works acceptably well for me though because the current reaches the OCD limit pretty fast so I don't have to worry about this that much.
5
« on: November 15, 2020, 01:09:00 AM »
Looks like someone else bought the same board as me. I had some success using the board. have you figured out how to get phase lead working. I kludged together some circuit with an inductor and a resistor and it kind of worked.
(haven't posted here in quite a while because busy with college)
6
« on: July 19, 2020, 04:51:19 AM »
Consider using resistive wire and mica for insulation. Mica is cheap, a good electrical insulator, and thermally conductive. This method is much more cheap and reliable than the induction heater approach.
7
« on: July 19, 2020, 03:45:01 AM »
I bought the same ferrite transformers a while ago. Since the transformer needed a pulse of around 100Vpp to form the arc in flyback mode, I needed to step up the output of the ZVS using another transformer. I got a power supply ferrite core and made a 5+5:60 transformer. I used the ZVS circuit but with 30V 60A mosfets and 24V zeners for protection. When I powered the ZVS with 5V, I got around 60Vpp at the output of the transformer, so not as good as the flyback circuit. This was then fed into two transformers connected in series (I think they're rated for DC, not AC) Here's the result, circuit uses 40W at 5V. I can stretch the arc over an inch.
9
« on: June 30, 2020, 09:05:32 PM »
Please explain in simple English what you are trying to do.
You are trying to heat up a piece of ceramic then use it to vape right?
10
« on: June 30, 2020, 09:01:55 PM »
Try checking for shorts It's really easy for a solder bridge to form between two parts with bare copper boards
11
« on: June 10, 2020, 11:12:20 PM »
You seem to be using a wirewound resistor. Ceramic resistors use a thin nichrome wire wrapped around a ceramic cylinder. This adds a significant amount of resistance to the resistor. Try using other types of resistors and that should help fix your problem.
12
« on: June 10, 2020, 11:07:34 PM »
That GDT doesn't seem to have insulation between the two wires, just lacquer. I've seen people make GDTs with magnet wire but I probably wouldn't risk the wires shorting and blowing up the IGBTs
15
« on: June 03, 2020, 12:50:28 AM »
You want the extra resistor so you don't get shocked when unplugging it
16
« on: June 03, 2020, 12:35:11 AM »
Here's my plan: I basically cut out 7 wires of the same length to connect to all of the emitters, and I added 7 1n5819 diodes and 7 10 ohm resistors to each gate. I'm going to connect one output of my GDT to these wires. Will this work? I'm worried about the emitters being at different voltage levels because of the high current. Edit: Can I use a quarter watt 10 ohm resistor?
17
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:58:20 PM »
It should work, but you might want to consider putting them in series for 10000V 50mA instead.
18
« on: June 01, 2020, 03:07:36 AM »
I made sure there was >2mm insulation around the diodes, so the weak point is probably the edge of the board.
19
« on: May 31, 2020, 09:25:26 PM »
Once the capacitor charges fully no more current flows through it
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