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Messages - abstruse1
1
« on: March 06, 2023, 03:41:52 PM »
A suggestion: give memorabilia items for contributions in different amounts, e.g. some small nameplate for $50, insulator for $100, etc.
I would contribute!
2
« on: September 12, 2022, 03:33:52 AM »
If I can find the software to do so with a minimum learning curve, I'd like to take messy, hand drawn schematics and convert them to neat, color coded and labeled schematics. At this point, I think I only need 2D software.
Ease of learning foremost. Price probably not an issue.
I use PC, not Apple.
Suggestions? Thanx!
3
« on: September 06, 2022, 06:23:53 PM »
Steve, that’s essentially what I have now. I can choose the output of one or all of my batteries in series and then the rheostat simply fine tunes the total.
I’ve been asking myself why I think I need a precise output. My rheostat is 10 ohms and I select the starting point by plugging into the battery point I want to start with, e.g. 36, 48, 60 or 72 vdc, then turning the rheostat down (lower resistance) until either I get a desired arc or something croaks elsewhere. I always turn The voltage off by cranking back on the rheostat so that the semiconductors don’t experience such a drastic turn off. A long time ago, This seemed to have helped prevent mosfet blowouts.
I’ve also thought about using lower voltage batteries in series, e.g. 6V or even lower, to give me finer adjustment.
I need to think about what’s really going on here. Maybe I’m doing something that is no longer necessary.
Stay tuned.
4
« on: September 06, 2022, 03:00:29 AM »
My shop has 240 VAC power (single and three phase) for welders and machines, so I could use a 240 variac.
But here's another maybe goofy idea. Let's say I know I want to run somewhere between 48 and 60 VDC. Could I wire 4x12v batteries in series and then take a 5th battery in series with a rheostat, and put that output in series with the 48 v. battery pack? If so, would that mean that I could get by with a lower amperage rheostat since it'd be regulating only the output from a single battery?
5
« on: September 05, 2022, 09:14:56 PM »
I’m on it, Steve, thanx.
6
« on: September 05, 2022, 06:41:01 PM »
And do I need to do anything to prevent HV spikes from going to the mains ?
7
« on: September 05, 2022, 06:38:20 PM »
Is a 22 amp 120v variac capable of 44 amps at 60v output?
8
« on: September 05, 2022, 02:01:16 PM »
It just occurred to me that maybe one could strobe the DC output from my batteries (input to the driver) like one dims an LED by strobing.
Or I could just buy two or more rheostats and run them in parallel.
9
« on: September 05, 2022, 02:16:49 AM »
I’ve been using large and expensive rheostats to vary the voltage to my flyback driver. I have about run out of capacity and I’m starting to cook these things. I expect there is a solid state way to do this.
My previous experience with solid state devices around hundreds of kilovolts hasn’t been good. I assume the electrostatic field messes up the solid-state components.
The maximum voltage input will be 72 V DC and the maximum current draw will be around 60 Amps.
What kind of the devices do I need to accomplish this?
Thanx, guys!
10
« on: August 29, 2022, 03:02:53 AM »
Thanx,guys. Twospoons, can you recommend a better op-amp?
11
« on: August 28, 2022, 08:03:02 PM »
A voltage follower, Kluge. 1:1 input:output voltage.
What did you mean by "partial circuit?" What's missing for a follower cicuit?
You said that 1kV analog multimeters have higher input impedance than DVMs. Is this also true of panel analog meters that have no power supply or internal circuitry?
I have an old Triplett analog multimeter.
12
« on: August 27, 2022, 08:22:08 PM »
I want to measure voltage output from flybacks. I've tried HV probes with DVMs, but at around 30 kV the readout disappears gradually, I assume from the electrostatic fields. So I want to try an analog VM. The probem is, the current output of a FB is so small that the low impedance of the analog meter drains a lot of the current and voltage.
From what I read, op-amps are exactly what I need, but I can't get an op-amp to work. There are many schematics on line, but they're abbreviated, so I've had to guess a bit. Maybe I guessed wrong.
Here's what I'm doing: Using LM-1458N chip, 9v battery for chip power, pins are
1. not used 2. connected to pin 6 and -voltage input 3. voltage +input 4. ground, voltage output pin 6, and -pwr input 5. not used 6. connected to pin 2 and +voltage output 7. +power input 8. not used.
What's wrong with this? I'm not using any resistors like some schematics show for multiple voltage input ranges.
I'll use a voltage divider to get the max input to the Op-Amp around 1 or maybe 10 volts, whatever my meter likes.
It seems weird to be working with tiny wires and very low voltage!
13
« on: August 21, 2022, 08:19:05 PM »
Thanx, guys.
14
« on: August 15, 2022, 04:04:53 PM »
Thanx for the info, Steve. I could proceed by guesstimating the voltage output, etc. of the multiplier, or I could simply experiment to see if there's a resistance that meets the two requirements, namely protecting the diodes from damage and doesn't excessively diminish arc length. The latter is what I've done so far, because I don't know how to make ballpark assumptions and calculate.
So far, with the setup I'm using now, both requirements seem to have been met (at 26" spark length). Of course, if I keep on increasing the input voltage to the driver, or maybe just run long enough (about 15 seconds is what I usually do), at some point, something will fail. Over the months and multipliers that have led up to where I am now, we've blown a lot of diodes. Fortunately, they're cheap enough and easy enough to diagnose in circuit and replace. I'm using 2CL2FP diodes.
I am monitoring the MOSFET and 10 watt, 470 ohm resistor temperature in my driver.
My current problem is preventing resistor flashover. Fortunately, this is simply a layout issue, not an electronic issue. Lots of distance, oil, polycarbonate and silicone tubing will fix this.
I do note that the resistance you cite is much lower than what I'm using (1 Gohm). A good test would be to see how much I can lower my resistance before spark length is significantly diminished, then use that lower resistance. . Since my (current) goal is 48" spark length, and since I've already surpassed half of that, my next step (after resolving resistor flashover) is to build a second CW, polarized oppositely. Then *Jump Back*!
I appreciate your help.
15
« on: August 14, 2022, 11:38:55 PM »
Kluge, you mentioned oil circulation. My 15 stage, fully rectified CW causes a lot of turbulence in the oil. Does this mean anything?
16
« on: August 14, 2022, 11:31:43 PM »
I've been running a 1G resistor across my 15-stage, fully rectified CW multiplier, because I read somewhere that to run a CW like this with no load across the output risks damaging the components.
Is this true, or am I wasting effort using the 1G load? If necessary, how does one figure the optimum resistance?
I can't tell that the resistor makes any difference on arc length.
17
« on: August 11, 2022, 10:56:28 PM »
I put a resistor string in a polycarbonate (or may be acrylic) tube filled with mineral oil. The bottom of the tube structure is 1/4" polycarbonate, which is sitting an a piece of 1/4" thick micarta, on a plastic roll around cart.
The resistor string totals 1G and it's across the output of a CW multiplier that's making 25" sparks.
Low and behold, there are small (<1") arcs through the oil into the polycarbonate bottom What in the world is going on? What could be attracting the arc?
18
« on: August 09, 2022, 12:31:47 AM »
Can you explain why you left every other segment of the bobbin empty?
Have you tried other alternatives to Litz wire for the primary? I played with Litz primaries once but didn't have adequate wire and melted the wire. I also compared the typical fine stranded 12 and 14AWG to solid magnet wire but couldn't tell much/any difference, so I'm using the solid wire. Heresay suggests that Litz would have some benefit for the primary.
19
« on: August 07, 2022, 07:15:11 PM »
CW Multiplier, Progress to Date I’ve finally gotten to the point where I’m having good luck with CWs and have a moderately good understanding of the basics (haven’t yet got to working with resonance). My best effort to date, judged by spark length, is 23” – 24.” The multiplier should be capable of >24”, but at >23”, I get flashovers under the oil, so I can only get 23” confidently. I'm running it in an 8" polycarbonate tube. Now at a strong 25" Gonna quit here and build another of opposite polarity. It’s a 15-stage, fully rectified, using 860pF, 20kV Murata (I think) caps, and 1x or 2x 2CL2FM diodes, 2 in series at first few stages, then singles. I’ve also used 2CL2FP and HVRL400 diodes, both of which have a higher voltage rating, but with 20kV capacitors, so far I can get by with the lower rated diodes. Input power is 5x 12v SLA batteries thru a 1kW 14 ohm rheostat. I always turn the device off and on by ramping down or up with the rheostat. I was having trouble blowing diodes and guessed that sudden voltage/current changes were responsible. Looks like I was right. Then to an inductive heater driver that has been very reliable. Is specifies 48vdc max input voltage, but I don’t know whether that’s OCV or load voltage. I'm putting more than 48vdc into it. I measure load current and voltage into the driver (more on that later). Then to homemade FB that has ~1,000 turns 28AWG secondary in four sectors on the bobbin, and 8 turns 12AWG solid primary. This has been fairly reliable, altho I have blown a couple of secondaries. Run in mineral oil that I cooked and evacuated. I expect that removing one turn from the pri would give me greater output voltage. Also, I have no gap in the ferrite core, and I have no idea what kind of ferrite it is. A main problem has been insulating the HV (post-FB and post-CW) wiring. I use 2-3 layers of silicone and polycarbonate tubing. With 60vdc output from the driver at 22 Amps at the batteries, I get 23” of a LOUD, high frequency spark. Note that I differentiate between sparks and arcs, the latter resulting from higher current (I think). I prefer sparks. I’m working on being able to measure the voltage out of the FB. I can’t do that with a DVM above ~30kV due (I think) to EMF that makes the meter blank out, so I’m trying to get an analog meter to work, using an op-amp (any thoughts here?). Next step is to duplicate the CW and polarize it oppositely, hoping for a combined ~48”. We’ll see. When I try this, I'll need to decide whether it'd work better to share the single FB with both multipliers (I've done this with smaller, half-rectified CWs); or to use a second FB and share the driver with both FBs; or to have two drivers, two FBs and two multipliers. Suggestions welcome. Thanx for the great help I’ve gotten from so many forum members!
20
« on: July 29, 2022, 05:50:32 AM »
Since current is transmitted from primary to secondary side of a transformer when the magnetic field builds or collapses, straight DC isn't considered to function with transformers. But, obviously, pulsed DC does work.
My question is, compared to AC, where during a wave cycle the potential of a conductor varies from + to - and back to +, etc., is pulsed DC any more or less effective than AC?
This depends on what I mean by effective, and I'm not sure quite what I mean.
It's been awhile since I scoped the output of a flyback driver, but my assumption is that it's pulsed DC, not AC. If that's right, the output of the flyback would seem to be pulsed DC also, not AC.
So would a voltage multiplier (e.g. CW) behave any differently if powered by AC v. pulsed DC?
I may be making errors in my understanding of the above.
Thanx!
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[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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Bobakman April 18, 2024, 11:15:15 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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davekni April 18, 2024, 10:59:36 PM
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Re: What actually kills MOSFETs?
[Beginners]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 10:03:48 PM
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Re: How to get a GE Yokogawa AB40 Sync Scope to rotate without a powerplant.
[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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klugesmith April 18, 2024, 09:53:25 PM
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Re: Welcome new members, come say hello and tell a little about yourself :)
[General Chat]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 09:50:09 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 09:15:55 PM
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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Mads Barnkob April 18, 2024, 08:50:49 PM
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 08:11:27 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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davekni April 18, 2024, 07:28:05 PM
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Re: How to get a GE Yokogawa AB40 Sync Scope to rotate without a powerplant.
[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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Bobakman April 18, 2024, 06:30:30 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 06:03:57 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 05:26:13 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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NyaaX_X April 18, 2024, 04:03:38 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 02:56:40 PM
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Re: DIY induction guns? (warning:long)
[Induction Launchers, Coil Guns and Rails guns]
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Benbmw April 18, 2024, 06:17:15 AM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 05:46:07 AM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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MRMILSTAR April 18, 2024, 05:18:31 AM
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