1
« Last post by Twospoons on Today at 09:00:36 AM »
Don't forget theres also the dI/dt rating to watch out for. Thats just as critical as I2t with capacitor dump circuits.
2
« Last post by klugesmith on Today at 06:21:32 AM »
Thank you for making and posting a well-annotated video. And using modern electronics to record the sound. Extra applause for measuring the diode current! You found the Beatles song playing on your "strong" AM radio station. Did you try using an old-style crystal earphone instead of the moving-coil headphone set? Now that you are set up to pick up and record the small sounds from high impedance headphones, how about sharing the sounds from putting an auto-ranging digital multimeter on the headphones, in resistance or capacitance mode?
3
« Last post by klugesmith on Today at 04:41:21 AM »
What's the repetition rate?
Your peak-current estimate sounds about right for a circuit with 4 uH and not much damping. I think simulation would show an SCR to stop conducting when current reaches zero at the end of first half-cycle, leaving a large reverse voltage on the capacitor.
The SCR you pointed to looks fine for an isolated current pulse like that. Datasheet shows surge current limit of around 1000 amps for a half-cycle at 50 Hz or 60 Hz; your pulse would be about 1000 times shorter. With more details about your application, we might get into discussion about the I-squared-t limit given in datasheet.
4
« Last post by Twospoons on Today at 01:19:36 AM »
Don't worry, I'm quite aware of how dangerous MOTs are. Same as any high powered device with more than a few hundred volts on it. Electric weed killers are not something you just hack together - one of the reasons I haven't done it yet. I'm still thinking through the kinds of safety interlocks I want, how everything can be insulated, how I'd make a safe handle etc. As for the 'low' 2kV voltage, the usual diode doubler will help there.
5
« Last post by FPS on Today at 12:59:54 AM »
If for example I wanted to dump a capacitor into a coil, using solid state components. Nothing too dramatic, let's say from a 1000v 3uF film capacitor. What sort of componentry should I be looking at? Is this https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/IXYS/CLA100E1200TZ-TUB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvLfqGeKEshXzRZzYD%252B%2F2e1%2Fa%2F9wApXDZ3F56seD8xlLA%3D%3DSCR suitable? rated 1200V and 160A RMS. I'm getting about 800A peak draw(?) using 4uH load, but how tolerant would a 160A rms SCR be of this (if that calculation is accurate at all). Assuming I can run them in parallel, should I use a full 5 to make up 800A.
6
« Last post by davekni on September 06, 2024, 07:26:02 PM »
As I understand it electrocuting weeds works better than flaming, as the electrical heating extends right down the plant stem into the roots, instead of just burning off the top and leaving the roots intact. That's my understanding too. Key is killing roots. To work well, top of soil needs to be reasonably dry to force current farther down through roots. I've been meaning to turn an old MOT into an electro-weeding tool. Use extreme caution! MOTs regularly kill, including a man here in my small town ~20 years ago. I have several MOTs, but am too cautious to consider them for weed zapping. BTW, from what I read, commercial weed zappers are 8kV to 15kV. I'd guess the 2.5-3kV of an MOT would be sufficient with a bit more dwell time on each weed to heat root sufficiently.
7
« Last post by Twospoons on September 06, 2024, 06:34:25 AM »
As I understand it electrocuting weeds works better than flaming, as the electrical heating extends right down the plant stem into the roots, instead of just burning off the top and leaving the roots intact. I've been meaning to turn an old MOT into an electro-weeding tool.
8
« Last post by haversin on September 05, 2024, 01:24:39 AM »
To evaluate different diodes, impedance transformers, headphones and configurations of my crystal set I made an electret microphone test stand to record the sound coming out of the headphones. The microphone signal is first amplified and sent to the audio line-in input on my PC. The software Audacity then can record, edit and analyze the audio signal. A 50 uA moving coil meter was also added to the crystal radio circuit to measure diode current. The video shows a comparison between two different germanium diodes. Turn sound on.
9
« Last post by davekni on September 04, 2024, 06:15:20 AM »
Sidenote: the circuit is grounded through a high-voltage benchtop power supply with a ground terminal that presumably goes through to the mains ground anyway but it's the secondary coil itself they're concerned about being connected to mains. Are you sure they are concerned about mains ground connection and not just mains hot and neutral? Most electronic equipment (scopes, signal generators, etc.) are connected to mains ground. Circuits being tested are also connected to mains ground through the equipment ground, such as a scope probe connection. Would you not be allowed to measure secondary current using a shunt resistor and scope? Other suggestions include a sheet of aluminium and this is where I'd like some advice - (1a) how do I do that safely i.e. where should that sheet be kept in relation to the coil and circuit & how should it be stored? (1b) How large should this sheet be? (1c) Or are there any other safer options you would suggest (remembering this coil should be able to operate indoors)? A counterpoise is great. Aluminum sheet or screen or foil works well, but steel is fine too, such as chicken wire. Easiest to place on surface such as table top, then set coil (including drive electronics) on top of counterpoise. Electronics could be underneath, but that's inconvenient and not necessary. Larger is always better. Counterpoise radius on the order of height of entire coil (including base) should be plenty. (Of course no need to be round.) Still best to connect counterpoise to line ground besides to secondary bottom. Likely OK without line ground connection, but I've never tried such. Always had both a counterpoise and line ground for my coils. Counterpoise will reduce current into line ground. And is it stupid for the aluminium-layered box to be cardboard, given the potentially high temperatures involved? My largest coil uses a foil-lined cardboard box. Works just fine, even though not ideal aesthetically. I have a scrap of polyethylene foam between box bottom and ECB, though my ECB does not run very hot. Mylar should be good to any temperature your ECB will survive. Or polypropylene or polyimide (Kapton) or polyamide (nylon) or many other options. Hope your build goes well!
10
« Last post by alan sailer on September 04, 2024, 02:13:27 AM »
I'm not sure what your school considers "tampering". The ground wire on a wiring system is designed to be used as a safety measure. Operating a coil using household ground can allow nasties to get into the grounding system. Quality electronics is designed to deal with the crud that happens in a typical AC system.
I am sure that there are situations where tesla coils hooked up to a residential ground have caused issues. But I've built a dozen or so tesla coils from 40 watt to several kilowatts and have used a residential ground as my only ground. No dead computers, routers, power supplies, scopes etc.
Would a ground rod be better? Sure but I'm not sure how. Counterpoise? I'm sure it has benefits, but the coils that I have built and run put out nice sparks in proportion to their power consumption. No ground rods, no counterpoise.
And of course, others with more electronic experience may have different ideas. Asking these questions is a good idea since it's not your stuff that could be hurt, it's the schools stuff.
Cheers.
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