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1
Additionally, this is the fibre optic cable I'm using along with the IFD95T: https://www.digikey.sg/product-detail/en/broadcom-limited/HFBR-RNS005Z/516-2091-ND/1990489, and I have this weird feeling that this fibre optic cable isn't suitable. Could this be the reason instead as to why my receiver isn't working?
2
Is there a difference between IF-D95OC and IF-D95T? I have a IF-D95T and so far I have been unable to get it to work even after following your instructions to integrate it into UD1.3. I can't even get any signal using my scope.

From what I can see, I'm guessing I should be getting IF-D95OC instead?  Apparently, IF-D95T has a "push-pull output" while IF-D95OC has a "open collector output". Since the UD1.3 had a 1K resistor between Vcc and the output, it kind of hints that the open-collector IF-D95OC should be used?

3
Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils / Re: My first drsstc
« Last post by oneKone on Today at 01:04:04 PM »
So I finally made a start to this project! I setup a winding jig and wound the same secondary as mads drsstc ii. After winding I gave it a coat of polyurethane in the evening and a second coat the next morning..... Little did I know the moisture in the air and on the secondary left a bad orange peel, so naturally I tried sanding it off.  This was the result


I was pressing too hard and it ripped a few windings off. A part of me is thinking that I might not have wound the coil that tight for this to happen.

So oh well, looks like I'll be winding another one! But I think I'll just can't this one in half and see how it goes as a sstc.
4
Yes, you just drive it like a regular LED.

I would use 150 Ohm resistor for 5 V supply, since that would give you 20 mA forward current and a relative brightness of 1, according to the datasheet ( http://i-fiberoptics.com/pdf/if-e96edatasheet.pdf ) and you do not need it to be more powerful than that.
5
Thanks Mads.

My best guess for the "pot check" is that pin 1 or 2 (or differential voltage Pin1-2) is read by uControler.
I suspect that it is simply a digital input. So just require over a certain level to confirm the current pulse sent to the induction plate.
Altenatively it requires a transition from low to high (schmitt trigger input), just after the pulse is sent.
If so i guess 24Khz could be routed to pin 1 or 2 so there is always transitions available  :D.


Or maybe a constant HI voltage on pin 1 or 2 can do the trick around 2,5V (from pulse i measured on pin1)

Hopefully time in the christmas holidays to play with it.
6
Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils / Re: new problem
« Last post by Garyf on Today at 06:23:00 AM »
Thanks for confirming!  This explains some things.
Looking at the various driver circuits, most have a delay filter on the way to the FF that looks like this:

Checking the signal after the filter, I see that at lower pulse widths, I'm not triggering the Schmitt.

 The time constant for this on my board is 50 us, Gao's is 100 us, and the Ward 1.3 is 400us.
I'm using the OneTesla interrupter designed for the TS that is so minimal it doesn't even have this delay filter.
I guess I should have looked closer when matching interrupter to driver.
7
Thanks! Could I see how you powered the IF-E96E fibre optic transmitter that you used in your interrupter in DRSSTC I? Can I just treat it as a regular LED and power it directly with a 100 ohm resistor using an arduino?

8
Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils / Re: new problem
« Last post by Max on December 13, 2017, 04:16:45 PM »
Good evening,


The beginning spike is normal (for all UDs without startup oscillator* and probably for any similar driver). When your driver gets an interrupter signal, your primary current is zero (thus no feedback) at first, so your driver must switch a first time. After this, it can and has to switch based on the feedback.
Now as you use it with artificial feedback, the interrupter signal will activate the driver anywhere in that signal and it will take a random time to the first zero crossing.
 
On the other side that last pulse is not normal at all and absolutely deadly for your switches. Apparently it does not wait for the next zero crossing to turn off, but does it immediately. That indicates a problem with the flip flops, which assure in normal operation, that turning off can only happen in zero crossings.
 
The consequence of the behavior of your driver is fatal. At the end of the on time, primary current is maximal. Now if your driver switches at a random point of the period, you have very good chances to switch a considerable amount op current, causing incredibly switching losses and spikes. Bye bye IGBTs...
 
*Actually this does not solve the problem, but delays it by the number of periods your startup oscillator is working. So you‘ll get a strange spike in the middle.


Kind regards,
Max
9
Looking at my first UD1.3 driver, I had the same trouble with the datasheet being a little unclear on the direction the pin out is seen from, as you can see here I ended up turning the opto 180 degrees.



I do not have the schematics accessable here at work, so we will have to do with this bottom side picture of the above driver



If you look into the opto, where you put the fibre cable in, you would have the negative leg in the left side and positive leg in the right side, signal in middle.
10
I see. Do you have the pinout for IFD95? The pinout in the datasheet is rather unclear and I think I exposed it to reverse voltage first time round. Now it doesn't seem to be producing a voltage on my oscilloscope when I run a fibre optic signal into it.
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