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Messages - Downunder35m

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1
I am a bit lost too, that is why I asked ;)
Not finnished with my book yet but I will try to explain why we "modern" people fail to find the connection.
Humas are notoriously lazy and happy for a long time once they created something great.
Take the car....
We observed nature and the universe for our first big inventions like the wheel.
Later we found more and more things in nature that are important but wee needed a way to express, understand and to put into into a language.
Math was "discovered" - it tanslates what can see, feel and hear in nature into something we can handle.
One and one makes two...
two times two equals four...
Add decimal parity and most basic math already forks fine.
Later we needed stuff like volumes, areas, angles to "invent" more complext structures and technology.
As a result all we know from nature was put into relating formulas, sequences, "fixed" numbers.
The laws of physics, the golden ratio, binary systems and parity, Fibonacci sequence, sine waves!
But the lazy human stopped evolving math the same way he discovered the connections in nature through observation.
The "simple" math was just expanded by more and more complex formulas.
We tried and still try to understand the energy triangle in nature but at least Einsten found the formula E=MC² to put it into a mathematically useful form.
No matter what, math will always be our translator for nature.
So a lot of possible pathways that nature provides us allow us to theorise about how things should be and develop technology to make it real.
Or to fail and find out where our math was wrong.
Technology however is based on the same flawed math that we simplyfied and now no longer care about but we invented calculators and computers to do it for us.
We used to visualise math back in the days...
Ruler like calculators to use sliders to show the relations in trigonometry.
tables to show us relations between certain sequences and fixed numbers like Pi and other "constants".
We ignore nature and also lost the visual aids that previously helped because using modern technolgy is faster.
We learn more and more to unlearn math by making it easier to use it.
And our modern understanding of technology does the same to us.
We copied the binary system from nature to create calculators but we ignored to add harmony and resonance to it ;)
And because we are lazy we also reduced the basic function to ZERO and ONE instead of including our well know laws of physics, seqeunces and harmonic spirals.
It works, so why bother, we just write enough code to compensate and again base it on the already lazy and flawed math that has lost harmony and resonance.

If Einstein and Tesla worked together as close as history make us think then they obviously exchanged ideas and theories.
If you put our understand of the most basic math into a circle then we end up with the energy triangle 369, the parity numbers 1, 2, 4, 8, 7, 5 and two circles that also form a perfect sine wave.
Both genius minds had the same common language: math.
One was driven to explain energy, the other tried to understand harmony and resonance and invented electricity to prove his version.
If math is the common language (like we learned a second language like french in school) than the the other tow, energy and harmony/resonance can be translated.
Of course there will always things that get a bit out of context or just won't ranslate properly.
We know that when we try use online service to translate lets say a chinese website...
So it is no wonder they both came to their big breakthroughs around the same time...
And is we look really close....
E=MC² ,C is the speed of light, a "fixed" number.
It is also a frequency, a wavelenght, energy...
It is harmonic and resonant.
Einstein might have failed to explain why C² is the same as mass, but 369 shows mass is nothing but a form of energy.
He explained the triangle without putting E M and C onto the corresponding 3, 6 and 9.
He was happy to have solved it, we just needed to figure it out too ;)
But if C and M are both the same, the opposite and their sum then harmony and resonance can replace both for the use in math.
And for electricity in harmony and resonance it means there is no loss, there is no chaos.
And in a resonant system all energies would amplify.
Since at this stage it would still lack the parity harmony and resonace translate the missing link.
This explains why Tesla was also obsessed with the ratios 1/4 and 3/4 - which becomes obvious once you bring the sine wave, or Yin and Yang in relation to 369.

And for those simple above reasons I came to the conclusion that a transformer as in Tesla's late patent is only half of the patent.
It can only work with a tuned Tesla transformer as the power source.
And it has to be in a 1/4 3/4 ratio to work as described in the patent.
There is no way around it with math and E=MC².
Both system must share two links.
The topload of the power source and the individual RF fields from both individual transformer.
Otherwise 369 would not be complete as in E=MC².
And Yin and Yang or our sine wave just proves it ;)
Or why else would Tesla have made the step from mechanical resonance (mass) to electrical?
Mass is energy, so invent AC electricity as a form of energy to replace it.
Quite obvious if you thing about it the way nature shows us, instead of using a flawed math system to understand it ;)

2
If you check Tesla's patents in regards to his multiplying transfromer and some related stuff you might notice something weird.
We usually use one primary and one secondary coil.
Tesla used three coils all up...
Look really close and you see the secondary is actually one topload and two coils.
But where the heck is our capacitor in the primary circuit?
Now try to to ignore the confusion I will cause now...
Tesla said it would be a MAGNIFYING transformer.
And that is in both the electrical and resonant term.
Without a capacitor in the primary circuit the coil would have been with enough self capacitance to make it work or opertate on its self resonant frequency.
Bit hard to do with the tech at the time and no computers to calculate relations.
But what if a similar or identically tuned tesla transormer was the power source??
The toload would act as the missing capacitor.
In a double tuned system the coils would also act as an antenna so we amplify electrictiy and resonant or harmonic connections.
All up to a factor of 4.
Three coils form the energy triangle.
Two identical but different and "opposing" transformers.
Linked through two toploads and harmonic/resonant connections.
Find the right frequency and energy levels and M becomes irrelevant in E=MC² ;)
But I guess it is just coincidence that both knew each other end had their breakthroughs after exchanging enough of their equal but opposing theories.
Einstein missed why C is also C² and opposite and equal to M or mass.
He was happy to know "what" energy is in math in the most simple form.
Tesla created electricity as we know it as a substitute and link for and to replace or create energy through harmony and resonance.
He tried but never made the final link between energy and resonanc/harmony a reality.
They both tried to use math to explain the circlebut both missed parity to make it complete.
In the impossible case that someone was able to follow and understand this:
You will certainly agree that the systems need a relation for harmony?
If so than you would have figured out that both system need these relation for itself, for their interaction and as whole to work as expected?
This includes physical, electrical and frequency relations.
But also distances, lenghts a positions to each other and as a whole.
You see the pattern already? ;)
1/ and 3/4 is the short answer otherwise E could never equal MC² ;) ...

3
General Chat / Re: Do you really know what 3, 6 and 9 stand for?
« on: August 15, 2018, 09:58:56 AM »
18 pages, font size 12, 39 chapters so far...
I have the right numbers, I have relations, I have conclusions, I have "proof".
3.3.3.
I need the 6 as more than a result of mathematical relations from what I have so far.
330 chapters more to reach the 9.
The remaining chapters must be equal in numbers but also add up or relate to 6 and 9 to come to the right conclusion and understand math as a language.
The relations to next sets of chapters and pages should result in harmony and proper realtions.
Maybe 1/4 and 3/4 ? ;)
Or with a pattern like the Fibonacci sequence?
Maybe a combination with PI, but then it would be too cryptic, if you know what I mean ;)
Maybe I realise my patters for the first 39 chapters was flawed once I can make more connections and relations to form a more complete picture?
Einstein was right, it all is RELATIVE....

4
General Chat / Do you really know what 3, 6 and 9 stand for?
« on: August 13, 2018, 05:19:03 AM »
I am working on a little, "interactive Ebook" that I hope to post here before the month is over.
In short words it would the attempt to try linking math to nature.
In a longer sense I make a lot more connection and end with a focus on electricity, well, more or less...
Hoping it will be at least a little bit interesting to read and maybe even entertaining I realised that a bit more insight might be a good idea.

It all started when, multiple times, I stumbled upon quotes from Nikola Tesla that the numbers 3, 6 and 9 would be the most important numbers we know.
Understanding them, their relations and what they really stand for would be like understanding the universe itself.
So I thought that might be nice material for a little fictional story to distract me from coils, drivers and toploads while waiting on parts.
Problem is with more research, more calculations and drawings I started to get the feeling it might be more than just a story.
Working on it now for about 3 years, on and off of course.
Started several times fully over too when I realised new insights rendered old stuff totally nonsense.
But just to give you a little look, like a blink of your eye:
I realised the relation between the metric and imperial system and from where it orininated.
I realised why a clock has 12 hours.
I realised why our computers only use the binary system and why quantum computers would not be the solution but only the next step.
And I might have also realised why we simply won't understand any "language" of our animals.

All this however is only based on my findings and what I think is still a bit real, considering how it all makes your head spin.
To make it more interactive I though I would ask if anyone here played with 369 before and has some examples or insight I might have missed?
What did you find out?
At what point did you give up and why?
Did you find the "missing" link between 369 and the Fibonacci sequence?
I mean it is really obvious why we started to and still use AC to get our electricity around the world.
Same for the relation of 369 to the rest of the numbers.
But what exactly is 9 in nature?

If no clue or you never bothered to think about then please wait for the first revision of my "interactive Ebook" !
I would love to base future revisions not only on my insights but also on yours after reading and playing with it.
As it is and maybe always will be a work in progress, reader feedback would make it truely interactive, so once I post it please at least consider reading it for fun and to waste some time when you are really bored ;)

5
Solid State Tesla Coils (SSTC) / Re: Slow rise & fall time
« on: August 11, 2018, 04:31:42 AM »
I would try using a lossy ferrite bead for the gate resistor or in addition to a small gate resistance. 

That is actually a really great idea!

6
Solid State Tesla Coils (SSTC) / Re: Slow rise & fall time
« on: August 10, 2018, 05:18:22 AM »
@  Offline T3sl4co1l : Thanks for the detailed info!
I would be really nice if we could collect such replies or informations somewhere.
My so called knowledge with RF, inductors and Tesla stuff in general all started when I was still in school.
Now, 40 years later a lot of what I learned at the time seems to be far less relevant, at least for our purposes here.
When I learned how to make my first radio transmitters the old blokes always insisted to use Litz wire whenever possible and practical, same for twisting wires that carry more than a supply voltage.

I suggested to use MOT wire for salvage because I made really good experiences with it.
As a rule of thumb I first check if I can solder through the insulation at the max of my soldering station.
If that works than I use the wire for normal connections on ciruit boards, high power but only mains voltage transformer applications and so on.
Only if it is a real pain in the behind to solder it directly I use it for HV.
And just becuse I can I often double check after the entire lenght is stored on a reel or similar.
For this I use a bth of water with some baking soda dissolved.
Submere the wire but leave the ends out.
Put finger in the water and use a spark igniter from an old lighter to spark ont the free wire end.
No shock and all good, shock and someone was not careful enough when getting it off the old core....

@ Laci: Someone will certianly shoot me virtually for it but anyway:
When I was at my peak with simple induction heating I literally had a small bucket full of fried mosfets.
Most were salvaged so no big loss at the time but when I went to more powerful versions I decided to avoid the digital smell of failure.
Due to the design of my circuit there was a high chance of latching if a diode or resistor was only slightly out of specs.
And a lot of amps going through both mosfets usually caused the instant death syndrome.
I simply replace my entire LC tank with a beefy 10W resistor and for the supply my lab power supply with a very low current set on the limiter.
Just enough for the resistor.
If the circuit was bad the mosfets would survive most of the time because of the very limited current available from the lab power supply.
But I don't see much that would be reason of concern in your case, so why not start testing under real conditions with a low input voltage?

7
Solid State Tesla Coils (SSTC) / Re: Slow rise & fall time
« on: August 09, 2018, 07:11:40 PM »
The -12V from an ATX is not just weak but also not really suited to join the +12V rail.
The first if for data purposes, the second for high power use.
I would not be surprised to see the voltage break in quite a bit.
No matter the supply I always found it beneficial to have a beefy electrolytic cap close to where the gate drive draws the most power.
And some switch mode power supplies really hate going from idle to full load.

But I agree, some schematics could help to figure out where the culprit is in this nice design....

8
Solid State Tesla Coils (SSTC) / Re: Slow rise & fall time
« on: August 08, 2018, 11:34:19 PM »
Apart from making the right selection for the IGBT's/Mosfets I learned that driving them the best way possible often is key to success.
In most cases that mean using a drive circuit that allows for the right voltage and high current with good peak performance.
A GDT for this purpose is best done on the right core for the frequency rage, it should also have suiable saturation characteristics.
Same for the wire used, ethernet cable with insulation is a bad choice IMHO.
Quiet thick magnet wire is a better choice, litz wire even better.
The turns should be tight and as even as possible, if in doubt use toothpicks as spacers on the outside.
But in todays times I really think a dedicated and fast Gate Drive IC would help you most.
With a suffiently strong power supply they not only provide fast rise and fall times but also offer a lot in terms of protection.
Some offer half or even full bridge support in one chip, other can be used in a positive-negative combo.
Either way they ensure no mosfet or IGBT can latch up or turn on together with the wrong partner.
You also eliminate a possible cause where interference can enter the system as you won't have the long and additional wires from the GDT.

For GDT's I won't use any cores from line filters, usually they are quite big and come in white or yellow.
From my experience they are of no use for the high frequencies we use.
Cores from 60 or 120kHz switch mode supplies work reasonably well and I used them for up to 200kHz with no problems.
Size matters to if you ask me and I prefer to have the core just big enough to hold a single layer of the required turns for all wires.
My prefered option is to use really thin wire, like from a cheap syncronous motor (less than hair thin) and to make several lengths of litz wire from it.
First making long "ropes" from just 3 wires.
"Fold" in half and twist again to get a rope with 6 strands.
And then the same for another two rounds to end up with 24 strands.
This is enough for most of my applications but since it is quite quick I sometimes go to 48 strands or even 92 for things that require more power.
All required strands are then fed through the core at the same time so they always stay parallel to each other and won't twist.
Spacing on the outside should be so thaton the inside all strands touch each other, should look like thick spokes on a wheel.
What is used for the connection should be twisted together right from the core and until the connection points are reached.
Of course the distances should be kept as short as possible.

In case you want to try with simple wire first salvage some line filter cores for their wire or better still use the (copper) wire from the primary of a MOT.
Clamp one end in a vice or twist it around something sturdy and with a tight grip run an old rag along the wire - this will remove any leftovers from the varnish so it won't act like needles when you wind it.
Use a pair of pliers or wrap the wire around a grip to slightly pull on it until perfectly straight.
Cut to the estimated lenght you need and wind it with care to prevent kinks.
Again wind all strands at once and in parallel to have the inner surface of the core covered while leaving small gaps on the outside.

Another way out is to use mosfets to provide the gate signals.
For fast switching og IGBT's you need high currents and a fast enough driver, mosfets can do this quite good.

9
When I started with Tesla coils ages ago I only used spark gaps and neon transformers.
Now I try to step up to SSTC's and later on want to go DRSSTC.
But one thing still stumbles me when it comes to the phenomenon of resonance :

I might be wrong with how I understand it, which could be part of my problem LOL
Back in the day I learned from a few old blokes how to build Tesla coils.
And they explained the stuff like this.
When the spark fires and closes the circuit the stored energy from the tank cap will cause the coil and cap to swing at their resonant frequency.
The amplitude starts strong and then fades down until the spark extinguishes.
The secondary is forced to act on the magentic field changes and starts to swing as well until the voltage built up is high enough to cause a break out.
So far that was always easy to understand.
But then I was told that while both coils are swinging the secondary also transfers energy back to the primary, which in return causes a longer swing time.
Would mean not just a single lightning strike but a succession of multiple strikes until the energy levels are too low.

All this happens with nice a nice sinus curve.
But when we go digital we often use measures to prevent boltage from flowing back into the "switch" with diodes and other filter measures.
With a SSTC we force the primary to swing at the resonant frequency of the secondary.
A DRSSTC has both sides in resonance.
But what happens to the additional energy transfer between the coils when the secondary would transfer some back to the primary?
I mean with a forced and constant signal this additional energy should cause the voltage in the primary to go even higher than with a spark gap.

What started as a simple and fun project starts to turn into a mental nightmare for an old man LOL
First I thought I only need to know how my mains voltage creates nice arcs from my secondary.
For that I need to understand resonance.
We deal resonance both for the magnetic and electrostatic field as well as for the radio waves.
Ok, slightly more than planned but managable...
Then came magnetic coupling.
With that coil and field properties.
Also standing waves, self- and layer capacitance and grounding of RF power...
It is soooo much easier doing it just for fun instead of trying to fully understand what happens and why it happens :(

By the way: Is there any easy way to simulate the magnetic field of a coil or two coils like in a Tesla coil?
What I found so far is far too complex for the old man behind the keyboard.
Was hoping for something that allows to create a coil or to import a 3D model of it, add some parameters and see the magnetic field on my screen.
So without endless calculations and the use of multiple programs to create a video from still images or screenshots.
I guess my chances are slim to none?

10
See, just when you thought you had it all figured out the learning starts again LOL
So much keeping it simple and easy, but a good challenge is better than an easy win ;)

11
General Chat / Re: How to machine end-caps for secondary coil
« on: August 05, 2018, 07:37:22 PM »
Ahhh, I feel your pain.
Had to go to a dedicated plumbing store for mine.
But if you have some left overs, an oven and something to cut PVC with...
Cut pieces of your pipe off that are longer than the diameter.
Cut these pieces with a hacksaw lenghtwise.
With a flat sheet or tray in the oven and preferably a sheet of non stick baking paper you can now heat the cut pipe sections.
A temp of 180 - 200°C should suffice to get the PVC soft enough.
First try to make them unroll.
Then move and turn them until the pipe looks like a flat sheet, more or less at least.
Take them out while still soft and use a dough roller, bottle or similar to really flatten them on a wooden board.
Once cooled and hard cut a disk out to fit tightly into your pipe.
(does not need to be perfect)
Use standard PVC glue and primer as directed on the packs to glue the disks into place.
First one is the hardest, so here is how to cheat:
As you should have a rig for the winding, use it ;)
Place the first dis inside and align it so if you spin the pipe it won't wobble.
Using a brush apply some primer along the joint area, don't soak it though.
Add a bit of glue in tree or four points, only a little bit!
While slowly spinning spread the glue to a really thin layer - it will dry quick...
Make sure the disk won't wobble and let this first bit of glue set.
The second disk will be inserted dry after applying a thicker coat of glue to the disk inside, cover the entire surface as thin as possible but thick enough to fill imperfections.
Push the second disk in and use a rounded pin or similar to push it against the first disk while all is spinning slowly.
You should see a small amount of glue coming out the joint area, wipe it off or spread it out.
Once all is set you can fill the remaining gap with resin for added stability.

A quicker way to cheat is to use a wooden disk.
Cut and sand it for a an easy fit, so leave a gap big enough so you could wrap a single layer of paper around the disk.
Use Chloroprene cement, also named shoe glue, neoprene glue, to make the connection.
Brush the joint area on the wood with some acetone, you want a slight wet look without soaking the wood.
Before it dries apply a coat of the glue and spread it evenly to get full coverage of the wooden joint area.
Prepare the PVC by wiping PVC primer over the joint area.
Before either fully dries press the disk into your pipe.
You only have limited time for adjustments and I find it beneficial to just place the disk on a non stick surface and then to slide the pipe over.
For bigger ones secure the disk with a screw for added stability but please through whatever it rests on into the bottom and not from the top as you need a bloody long screwdriver to get it out ;)

12
General Chat / Re: How to machine end-caps for secondary coil
« on: August 04, 2018, 07:25:14 PM »
In my old days and for bigger secondaries I only used a cap on the top of the coil.
For this I made an insert and glued a thin sheet on top of it.
The insert was pushed into the tube to produce a "pot" about 5mm deep and then filled with resin.
Usually the mounting screw for the topload was placed in before and wired up.
The bottom did not get a cover but instead an insert on the base.
Top of the that insert was slightly conical to make it easier to get the primary on it.
Depending on the height and how thight this insert was I used 5 to 10 cm in lenght here.
Just means you need to keep that base mount in mind when designing and winding.
Also noticed that it pays off to have this bottom mount adjustable in height for various reasons.

13
General Chat / Re: Isn't there a better way to make a custom toroid?
« on: August 04, 2018, 07:16:57 PM »
So you are saying that apart from looks there is no realy benefit?
Id a pipe cage performs as good as a real toroid then I might have to reconsider my approach and go for simple instead.

14
Might indeed by a problem of frequency and power levels too.
Maybe even how the coil is grounded.
Plasma is weird in this way...
But if we see it as a capacitive conductor it would make sense for the streamer to stay contained within the electrostatic field.
Within this field it would be easiest for the plasma to exist.
And the magnetic field could also affect the plasma to direct it away and up.
At least with a breakout point present.
Try a tiny sphere instead of a sharp breakout point to see if your arcs react differently.

I also think that your toroid is looking really good and certainly affects the field.
No corona effects, no uneven curves.
Mine is far from this quality but my small sparks also appear as straight lines.
Maybe worth investigating how to create a directional and focussed breakout point.

15
Nice designs and sparks indeed!
I see you are going in similar directions with your thoughts.
There must be a better way somewhere..... LOL
You already noticed that simply adding some caps or splitting coils not always results in all the desired effects.
Maybe something from my army times give you and idea where I am going here:
For our radio equippment we often used quite powerful transmitters.
And literally everything that was RF HOT was smooth and rounded with no sharp edges anywhere.
After a quick and dirty field repair the inside of our transmitter was glowing everyhwere.
Range was very limited, static in every transmission.
Only because we had to get some covers off and nothing to create smoth seals that are fully conductive when done.

Every straight piece of wire running at the resonant frequency will act as both antenna and receiver.
Means all connection should be rounded with no sharp bends or pointy bits anywhere.
Makes it hard to implement capacitors into the coil unless the coil itself is designed to have enough self capacitance to do without any additional caps in the resonant circuit.

A long time ago I experimented with magnet coils to see how different designs affect the magnetic field strenght.
Most of it was of course multilyered coils and quite often only for DC use.
And to judge anything I only had a compass or two and some fine iron dust in a clear plastic container.
The one thing I remember most is a coil from an old analog TV.
For some reason this old BW model had coils around the tube in seperate packs.
Without the curvature see them like a trapez in shape once flattened.
Like with conical primaries on a tesla coil the megnetic field could be elevated from the center of the coil by using different angles.
But if I used two of these coils with one fully vertical and the other angled, the megnetic field would be more like a funnel.
Bottom part basically like a tube and then expanding outwards on the top.
I think a similar effect coul be greated by using a seperated bifilar coil.
One winding cylindrical, the other half of the bifilar conical, so no flat coil anywhere this time folks....
I admit that I have no clue if the inductivites for both halfs should be matched.
Same for wire having the same wire lengths by the way.
But I do know that in general and with no regard of RF or coupling effects to each other that:
(only from my eperiements in the DC field!)
1. The magnetic field is very strong and powerful in the region from top to bottom of the vertical coil.
2. The field is quite uniform in strenght in this region too and in a circular configuration should be tunnel like.
3. Above the two coils the tunnel expands like a funnel, the angle of the conical coil affects the angle of that funnel.

If my thoughts are correct than, at least for a stumpy, it should be possible to have the magnetic field of the primary circuit overlap the electrostatic field of the topload.
It would be beneficial if the secondary is designed in length to match the wavelenght (at least IMHO).
We would have a magnetic field that full encloses the secondary before spreading out too much.
We would also have an electrostatic field, which I see as beneficial here, that overlaps with the magnetic field tight where coil and topload meet.
As everything in in resonance I assume the overlapping fields will extend acrs away from the topload.
So instead of allowing to go straight down with a risk of hitting the secondary or primary the arcs should act more like water coming out of a horizontal hose opening.
The more power the further they are driven out before going down to ground.
Well, at least in my theory of overlapping fields and harmonic relations ;)

16
General Chat / Isn't there a better way to make a custom toroid?
« on: August 04, 2018, 06:00:31 AM »
I looked around for sources of more or less well fabricated toroids.
Nothing in copper of course but at least some are available in aluminium.
But IMHO the prices I have seen do not justify the high price.
Back in my big spark gap days I mainly use tube cages or in some cases stianless steel spheres as a stack.
For a desktop model however this is not to my liking as one day I would like to have something that not just works but also looks nice.
On my tiny lathe I could try to make forms for rolling my own toroids but only to about a diameter of 15cm, thanks to being a tiny lathe...
So what other options for something with a really smooth and nice look are there that can be done on a hobby level?

Ducting, no...
Polystyrene rings, maybe but still a ton of work and definately not easy to get a mirror finnish...
Baking dishes, again maybe but hard to find something that would make a true donut or better still a toroid without major surgery.
And while doing all sorts of weird Ebay searches I found something that might be worth to consider.

What about 180° pipes?
Commonly used for cars and exhaust system in 3 and 4" but certainly also used in oher areas and diameters.
For some configurations it should be possible to get a suitable radius and pipe diameter to make a decent toroid...
But still not really something for a custom creation to fit a specific coil...
Or does anyone happen to know how to get a 60mm copper pipe into a smooth ring?
1.2mm thick walls too LOL

So I thought it should be possible to combine pipe bending with a slightly different cage cage design.
Sure someone has done it before but I could not find any references, so I will try to explain it:
If we take standard copper plumbing tubing then we can use springs or fill it with sand to bend it into any diameter the pipe allows for.
Using a suitable template like a PVC pipe, thick carboard tube or just wooden disks it should easy to create rings that create a donut from several copper rings.
Correct me if I am wrong but the "grooves" between the pipes should not be a problem for arcs as the pointy bit faces inwards?
And yes, I know that such a design would be really heavy but if done well it should look really nice once polished ;)

Last though: Conductive paint and/or electroplating/electrolyse things?
Every time I am welding stuff that needs corrosion protection I use zink or aluminium spray that also allwos to weld through if required later.
At least the aluminium type gives a semi gloss to satin result on smooth surfaces.
The zink based stuff looks more like a surface powdered in grey.
From experiments I know that for copper plating zink I need a cyanide based first plating bath and won't go that route again.
Aluminium should be straight forwards at least in theory.
During my tests I noticed that the aluminium parts often oxidise faster than what I am able to clean and move.
Was a race of often 10 or more rounds until I got an even coating of copper all around bigger parts.
But using aluminium spray as a base for this??
Proper paint that is conductive enough and not carbon based cost a small fortune...
Not to mention the problem of keeping a very light toroid submersed or being able to remove the filling when done without causing damage...

There must be an easy and relatively cheap way to make a proper toroid with a copper finnish that does not involve machining or expensive tools.
So what did I miss?
Would it make a difference if inside the toroid is a solid disk or just wires like on a bicycle wheel?

17
Before I try complex configurations I really want to compare some basic design first.
For me it was always easier to understand these things by actually doing them.
You know, start with a square, round up some edges, make a hole in the center, round and smooth the outside a bit more and in the end I call it a wheel ;)

18
Thanks for all the info so far!
Seems I have to do a lot reading before I settle on where to start with my modifications.
Too many ideas, too much to try but never enough time :(

19
I like the idea of your mods, never thought of going this route.
At least not with additional coils in the primary circuit.

I have to assume that you used secondaries with a much smaller diameter before.
With your nice stumpy design, how much of a difference do you think makes the bigger diameter compared to a longer and thinner secondary?
Asking as I am still playing with the idea of making a much shorter secondary than yours but struggle to make or obtain a suitable toroid.
Might have to make a pipe ring cage if all goes down south LOL

20
Solid State Tesla Coils (SSTC) / Re: A little help with first Tesla Coil
« on: August 01, 2018, 02:48:13 PM »
You are dealing with a lot of power and high frequencies.
The connections on the pref board and so on cause a lot of interference, either themself or by picking it up.
You should simplyfy the thing and make a small circuit board or at least keep everything as close and short as possible.
The primary needs much thicker wire.
Even at just 150W it would have far too much losses due to the resistance.
HF causes the skin effect, so all the power travels on the outer "skin" of your wire.
Try 4mm wire as used in cars or speaker wire of similar thickness.
The spacing between the turns should be considered for proximity effects too, you don't want them too close....

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