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1
To the primary coil?
My DRSSTC had some arc flashover not long after I built the coil, I didnt even notice it to see what happened, but there was a hole burned out at the base of the coil.
I simply removed the bottom of the winding to the point where the wire burned out and used it as is, and it worked fine this whole time.
Since then the enamel on the wire had broken down and oxidization has happened, so ive stripped the wire and will rewind the whole coil and use epoxy to coat it.
Any suggestions on rewinding? I was told at one point that the primary was probably too close to the secondary and that the winding should start above the primary coil and not have it sit in line with the primary.
Going through some old notes, I was reading that its recommended that the MMC connects to the outer end of the spiral and that the inverter connects to the inside end of the coil, currently my setup is wired the opposite of this, so perhaps I should change this?
Ive seen other coils built this way, but if there is anything that I should keep in mind before I wind this, that would be appreciated.

2
I've noticed some discoloration on the wire and not sure if it's corrosion on the enamel or something but had happened on its own during storage.
I used it the other night and noticed that some notes don't sustain very well and depending on the frequency, I.e higher pitched notes were not playing very well or with much of an arc at times.
I cranked the thing up to full power and noticed some pin prick blue Corona all around the coil, and seems to happen around these parts of the secondary that are discolored.
I could see upon inspection that it's now burned through the polyurethane, do I'm going to have to rewind this coil again
Could this have been the issue with the coil not sounding right?
I'm wondering it is possible that arcing across the secondary behind the winding where I can't see it?
I want to use epoxy this time round. It is moisture cured floor polyurethane.
Is there an epoxy that can be applied first prior to winding that  will dry within a few minutes and help set the wire onto the pipe?
There is nothing really holding this onto the pipe and it's actually lifting a bit in places it appears.
See photo.

3
I built a DRSSTC about 8 years ago and have not done much with it lately until now, mostly because I could not use it at home without it annoying the neighbours.
I have however done a couple of public performances with it with great reception and have a friend who has a place I can operate it in front of visitors. I want to build something bigger with a bit more power this time.
Seems IGBTS are not only cheaper than before, but there is more to choose from.

Should I stay with CM300 series? Is there any particular part numbers that are better to go for nowdays? There are quite a few different variants in the CM300 series than I remember at the time.

Spec wise, how large a coil could I go for with CM300s? I need to dig up the specs for my coil, but at the time I think the MMC was only rated at 700 APK, possibly 800, will need to check.
I have been getting by with an 8A variac at 230V mains. Been using loneoceans UD 2.7 and have been getting streamers at least 2 metres long at full power.
Am i better going with higher rated IGBT's to make it more reliable such as CM600 and just operate at lower power?
Also looking at power requirements if I want to run 2 large coils together. Its difficult to run 2 of them if they are drawing 10A each at the wall outlet, that means I need to connect them to 2 individual outlets on a different circuit breaker.
Not sure now others are getting by when running multiple coils, do most people just turn the power down? Could I get a single variac and run 2 coils through it if the outlet can provide the power?

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