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Messages - petespaco
1
« on: March 08, 2024, 01:59:43 AM »
I gave the smaller crucible a try though (empty), and it presents a very light load. At 12V / 50% duty cycle it takes ages to heat up and only gets to the point where it is glowing a bit. Pardon my butting in on this thread since I have such limited experience. But--- With my 2500 watt Chinese induction heater running on 48 volts (at, I'd say, 100% duty cycle) I'd draw about 35 power supply amps with a crucible of about that size in the work coil.. Subtract about 5 amps for what I call "idle current", and I have about 30 X 48 = 1440 watts going into the crucible. Within a couple of minutes, it starts to glow and within 10 minutes it is glowing a very bright orange, even with a couple of hundred grams of copper scrap in it. So---- you are at about 1/4 of that input voltage and only half the "on time", for about 180 net watts into the work, so I am not surprised that you don't see much heating going on. If I were you, I'd get that supply voltage up as much as you can. What is your goal for melting metals? -Ferrous? Non-Ferrous? -Weight? 100 grams? 1000 grams? -Melt time to pouring temp? I minute? 1 Hour? Are you measuring power supply input current? I'd suggest that you do that so you can get an idea of overall circuit efficiency.
2
« on: March 07, 2024, 04:32:17 AM »
Just being a curious bystander-----
I don't understand why the tank current would rise "after the temperature reaches the curie point". What ferrous metals are you heating at that time? In my humble (ZVS induction heating) experience, current DECREASES as ferrous metals in the work coil reach the curie point.
I notice a graphite crucible sitting beside the work coil in one picture, but that isn't ferrous, so "curie point" wouldn't apply. Right?
Do I understand that your input voltage to the IGBT's is only 12 VDC for all these tests? Why not more?
Pete Stanaitis ---------------
3
« on: November 24, 2023, 06:40:13 AM »
induction is cheaper to run. I think. No. I tell you again: A watt is a watt. You will gain nothing for all your trouble. In fact, if you intend to use the device to heat water, you will waste power in your power supply and in circuit losses that wiil NOT heat your water. If your goal is to heat the water in an existing system, you can use inline electric water heaters like this one: https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/kat-s-circulating-tank-heater/0000000047511?Ntt=005101472&gad_source=1I am certain that there are MANY similar heaters like this available all around the world, and they won't require any ancillary equipment or electronics.
4
« on: October 27, 2023, 04:36:56 PM »
Sorry to hear about all of your troubles. From what you have written, it appears that you did not get a replacement board from the maker. So you attempted to build the circuit from scratch using that mosfet driver. The actual circuit that those heaters usually use is shown about 1/3 of the way down this page,if you are interested: https://spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htmI don't understand why you would want to go to all the trouble of using an induction heater to heat a shed (by heating water?) or to heat any space at all. A watt is a watt. If electricity is your only power source, why not simply use a resistive element or an off-the-shelf electric space heater instead?
5
« on: September 30, 2023, 04:20:20 AM »
Looks like it started leaking there at the end of the video.
I think I'd be worried about safety with that project.
6
« on: September 11, 2023, 06:44:03 PM »
In my opinion, about the only thing you can do is to attempt to locate and replace any defective discrete components on the board. It appears that the software works to some extent, so the controller chip isn't totally fried, but who knows if some input to it got blown out. Maybe you just need to buy a new one and save the old one for parts. And take this event as a learning experience.
7
« on: August 03, 2023, 05:40:56 PM »
Maybe the easiest answer for Alberto is to NOT modify the original circuit at all. (No separate gate power supply at all) It has worked quite well for me for several years. as long as the main DC power supply can deliver at least 20 amperes or more at his 30 volts. In my own experience, the gating problems seem to be related to situations where the DC power supply's voltage drops below 12 upon startup. I usually switch the DC power on with a DC rated circuit breaker AFTER I am certain that the power supply is up to full output voltage.
8
« on: August 03, 2023, 06:03:03 AM »
RE: Might be easiest to have 15V power a relay (mechanical or solid-state) on AC line input to your 30V power supply. Dave- Could there be a problem getting oscillations started if the 30 volt DC supply comes up slowly? If so, maybe put that relay in the DC ckt?
9
« on: July 13, 2023, 05:30:45 PM »
Refrigeration and air conditioning companies seem to use these fittings. I convert my systems to 1/4" OD copper tubing and fittings for that exact reason. (I am in the USA)
10
« on: July 06, 2023, 04:24:38 PM »
Thank you for the feedback. Looks like you are off to a really good start!
11
« on: June 21, 2023, 09:57:09 PM »
"No matter in any case, no-load is allowed (no-load refers to the output port without any load).---- They mean that you must not apply power to the ZVS circuit if you do not have a proper work coil connected. As you have already observed, there is NO PROBLEM with having the unit powered up with no work piece in the work coil. Second question: For the same reason as first question I would like to use a footpedal to engage heating. Or maybe have I misunderstood it and there is nog engage exept turning on the machine? The "footpedal" can be used to trigger an appropriately sized mechanical relay or an appropriately sized DC Solid State Relay. I assume that you will already have your work piece in the work coil. I have tested this case and I see no problem with it. ---As long as you already know that the current that will be drawn by that work piece will not exceed the capabilities of the relay or the ZVS board. In this case, of course, you will need to have your DC power supply "ON" and only use the relay to send the DC power to the ZVS board. If any of this is unclear, please feel free to ask for more information. !!! Your English is very good!!!
12
« on: May 20, 2023, 04:28:14 AM »
Just a couple of comments from a guy who doesn't know much of anything about this particular induction heater: 1. I think the resonant frequency generally DROPS as workcoil inductance increases. 2. I think the resonant frequency generally Drops as a solid workpiece is inserted into the work coil, but it Increases if a hollow or tubular workpiece is inserted. See this for a couple of examples (at about 9:26): /> 3. When attempting to select a Mosfet- Somebody once told me to choose one with a Vds equal to at least pi times the DC supply voltage. For example, my Chinese ZVS heaters run on 48 volts DC and they use the IRFP260N, which has a Vds Max of 200. Don't take anything I say as "gospel" without verifying my comments---
13
« on: May 07, 2023, 06:25:28 PM »
Thank you for asking!!! I am the original poster for this thread. It still gets between 50 and 100 views per day. I consider it to be a resource to those just getting into induction heating with the 1000 to 2500 watt or so induction heaters sold all over the world. I know it takes a while to locate specifics by scrolling through all the information here. So, Here are a couple of links links that take you directly to my many youtube videos and webpages on the subject; https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVxWen9M87dBhvInCQ-3pELWdxCM3XH4Ihttps://spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htmI am certain that I have posted them previously here, but this is a quicker way to get started. I don't post testing and communications here where the folks who write to me asking for consultation on projects that have proprietary concerns. But I do have to say that, over the last few years I have seen these small induction heaters used on some pretty interesting "out of the box thinking" projects.
14
« on: April 09, 2023, 06:52:17 PM »
Any idea about how cut ferrite core? How would you get a gapped ferrite core around your titanium getter if the getter is somewhere within a vacuum tube?
15
« on: March 30, 2023, 05:39:18 PM »
Re: "who else has stories ---?" Galloping Power lines: We have had a few instances of galloping transmission lines (150Kv and 300Kv lines run along one edge of our property about 1/4 mile away from our home). See this for an explanation: https://www.lanescott.coop/when-winter-winds-howl-power-lines-can-gallopAbout 10 years ago the transmission line companies began winding some heavy gauge wire around the lines in certain areas where the high winds are prevalent. They would wrap 10 or 20 foot long sections of the line, skip 20 or 40 feet and then do it again. The idea is to destroy the airfoil shape of the wire to prevent the "galloping". Almost off topic, but of interest to me: About 5 years ago, one of those transmission line companies totally rebuilt their power line. In so doing, they cut back the trees in one portion of our woods, all the way to the very edge of their easement. (In the past, they had not gone as far as they could have). Anyway, 30 or more of the trees they dropped were in the 30 to 50 or more years age group. All hardwoods like Maple, Oak, Hickory, Ash, etc.. I made about 30 logs from them and had about 1500 board feet of lumber milled from all that. See: /> https://spaco.org/Forestry/SawingWood2009.htm
16
« on: March 25, 2023, 03:48:26 AM »
Regarding the addition of some filter capacitors- I have four 8600uf 60 volt electrolytic capacitors wired in parallel with 10 gauge wire that I can easily apply to the rectified output (up to 48 volts) of various transformer secondaries. I use them if I think ripple is too much for whatever project I am working on. Not necessarily very scientific, but it seems to work. One thing to consider is the inrush current needed to charge them up upon power up. So far I haven't had any issues, though.
17
« on: March 15, 2023, 11:53:29 PM »
- please see (11).
- thinking i would be able to measure current.
Re: please see 11: Ahha- so the highest voltage that was ever applied to the system was 32 volts, right? Well, it MIGHT be that the work coil heated up so much that it tranfered too much heat to the pcb and its components. Was the work coil discolored when you returned to check the system? Otherwise, sorry, but I am stumped. I wonder if you could apply with the seller to return it under warranty. Re: thinking---: Was that loop part of the original circuit or was it something you added for testing?
18
« on: March 14, 2023, 05:01:44 PM »
Re: lm2596hv chip : The only thing that comes to mind is that the circuit experienced a severe over voltage at some point. And why would you run the machine without the fans and without cooling water?
Re: induction cooktop: I have no idea. But why would you short the loop anyway?
19
« on: March 13, 2023, 06:15:51 AM »
Re: "book to learn electronics": I too, learned electronics a long time ago, starting in about 1948. If I were starting out today, I think I'd get one of those "learn electronics kits" Here's one example: https://www.sciplus.com/electronic-playground-48491-p?
20
« on: March 10, 2023, 05:13:44 PM »
Let's back up a bit. What does that lm2596hv chip do in this circuit? In my experience, it (they) are only used in a circuit that supplies 12 volts to cooling fans and/or a water pump.
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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davekni April 18, 2024, 10:59:36 PM
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Re: What actually kills MOSFETs?
[Beginners]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 10:03:48 PM
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Re: How to get a GE Yokogawa AB40 Sync Scope to rotate without a powerplant.
[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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klugesmith April 18, 2024, 09:53:25 PM
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Re: Welcome new members, come say hello and tell a little about yourself :)
[General Chat]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 09:50:09 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 09:15:55 PM
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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Mads Barnkob April 18, 2024, 08:50:49 PM
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 08:11:27 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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davekni April 18, 2024, 07:28:05 PM
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Re: How to get a GE Yokogawa AB40 Sync Scope to rotate without a powerplant.
[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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Bobakman April 18, 2024, 06:30:30 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 06:03:57 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 05:26:13 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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NyaaX_X April 18, 2024, 04:03:38 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 02:56:40 PM
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Re: DIY induction guns? (warning:long)
[Induction Launchers, Coil Guns and Rails guns]
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Benbmw April 18, 2024, 06:17:15 AM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 05:46:07 AM
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