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Messages - MRMILSTAR
1
« on: Today at 04:20:46 PM »
You can look at what I made for my CW multiplier. It consists of two AC flybacks in parallel driven by a ZVS driver. The ZVS driver was obtained through E-Bay and is very common. I also got the AC flybacks from E-Bay. They are less common. https://highvoltageforum.net/index.php?topic=1524.0
2
« on: April 25, 2024, 05:13:46 PM »
As previously mentioned, the spark gap is dangerous to look at because its so hot. The extreme temperature causes it to emit copious amounts of UV radiation. I have attached two pictures which graphically show this. The pictures are of the bottom portion of the secondary coil for my large SGTC. When in place, this portion was about 12 inches away from my rotary spark gap firing point. The brown area shows the effect of the UV radiation on the PVC tube. It has significantly degraded the surface. This was only after a total of about one hour of operation. The other picture shows my repair. I covered the exposed spot and other parts visible to the UV radiation with aluminum tape.
3
« on: April 25, 2024, 05:45:36 AM »
Voltage and rep rate are related. The relationship depends on the available current from your transformer. You can get an idea by looking at the output of JAVATC. Specifically, look at the capacitor charge level output. This will show you the voltage level of the capacitor charge at the end of each rep just before discharge.
4
« on: April 25, 2024, 05:41:05 AM »
The danger area is the spark gap due to the UV radiation. The UV radiation is caused by the extremely hot spark gap. Mine is shielded from direct view. As far as the streamers are concerned, I don't think there is any eye danger from viewing those. Those aren't nearly as hot as the spark gap. The colors that you see are just nitrogen and oxygen emission lines. I have looked at streamers of various types for years with no ill effects.
5
« on: April 21, 2024, 08:34:02 PM »
The most expensive component of any SGTC is the HV capacitor bank. There really is no cheap way around it unless you resort to beer bottle capacitors but those are very lossy and frequently fail.
6
« on: April 21, 2024, 05:19:55 AM »
The primary purpose of the varnish is to hold the windings together so that they will not fall apart during big temperature changes. The varnish does little to increase the insulation. The coating on the wire does that job. If the wire is double-build or heavy-build, the breakdown voltage can be up to about 10 KV. Since using plastic bottle material won't do anything to secure the windings against temperature changes, I don't see much point in using it. Brush-on varnish isn't expensive. A single small can will easily give you two coats on a secondary coil.
7
« on: April 20, 2024, 08:58:40 PM »
For a small coil inside an apartment I would use a counterpoise. I would avoid connecting it to the house ground. The quality of that ground is unknown. You could end up destroying electronic equipment that is plugged in.
8
« on: April 20, 2024, 03:45:43 PM »
Instead of holes I cut eight slots under the primary coil. This allows a wide latitude for moving the tap point around under the primary coil. I have attached a picture.
9
« on: April 19, 2024, 05:24:19 AM »
I thought that you just wanted the ability to change the output needle position according to some user-adjustable control. For that case, the "John Freau phase shifter" may work because you only need an adjustable phase shift with a 60 Hz frequency. However, if you want to see the needle rotate then you need some small frequency adjustment as others have stated. And as others have stated, some sort of inverter with 120 volt output is probably the most logical way to do it. I have seen "true sine wave" inverters for sale but they aren't cheap. I'm not sure if a conventional PWM (square wave) output inverter will work. You would just have to try one. In either case, you would then need a way to slightly adjust the output frequency of the inverter since they are designed to be fixed at 60 Hz. Depending on the method used to generate the 60 Hz output perhaps you could possibly hack into the circuitry to provide a way to adjust the output frequency slightly. I am not hopeful of that because I think that the output frequency is tied directly to the input frequency.
If the meter will operate properly with a PWM output inverter, you could use a single phase of the 3-phase output of a VFD. These commonly provide a way for the user to adjust the output frequency with a knob, either built-in or externally supplied. 240 volt single phase input VFDs with 240 volt 3-phase output are commonly available. I use one to control my lathe. I can adjust the output frequency with a knob. There may be a 120 volt VFD available but I don't know. If this would work I have seen small cheap Chinese VFDs on E-Bay for less than $100.
10
« on: April 18, 2024, 05:18:31 AM »
That looks like within about 10% of prediction which is pretty good. Certainly close enough for initial tuning. Did you account for the tolerance of your capacitors?
11
« on: April 17, 2024, 11:54:05 PM »
I just started researching this as you recommended. Is it possible to make one small enough for the lamp project? When I think of a Variac I think of a large Toroidal coil transformer with a large knob on it.
There are some very small variacs. I have one that is only about 3 inches in diameter. Consult E-Bay.
12
« on: April 16, 2024, 11:56:12 PM »
They are usually called "magnifiers" for some reason. People still occasionally build them but it seems that they are needlessly complex and take up more space than standard 2-coil designs. I haven't seen any evidence that they out-perform standard 2-coil designs.
13
« on: April 16, 2024, 03:12:12 PM »
WAIT A MINUTE I think I just realized something that was confusing me in javaTC?
So for feeding a tesla coil DC like I'm going to do, the capacitance value of the resonant capacitor is only related to its tuning with the primary coil (making the primary + resonant capacitor frequency match the secondary resonant frequency)? In other words if I were to change the input voltage over a range of say 12-24V, it would have no effect on the required capacitance value of the resonant capacitor, I would just have to make sure it can handle the peak voltage?
That is correct.
14
« on: April 15, 2024, 09:28:50 PM »
I'll offer a guess with the caveat that I've never used one. According to the data sheet this device accepts two nominal 60(50) Hz, 120(240) volt inputs. The phase can differ between the two. This is what causes the rotation. The data sheet doesn't say but I'm guessing that it requires a few amps of current to operate. The basic problem then is that you need two power supplies. One is fixed at 60 Hz and provides the reference phase. That one is simple, its just your standard wall power. The other power supply is the more difficult one. It needs to deliver 60 Hz at 120 volts with some level of phase adjustment. The simplest method that I can think of which may work is to use what is called a "John Freau phase shifter". This is something that is used with some spark gap Tesla coils to perform phase adjustment for the rotary spark gap motor. Basically, it is a bandpass filter consisting of some motor run capacitors connected to a small variac. The nominal center frequency is at 60 Hz. The input is the wall power. The variable inductance provided by the variac provides the phase adjustment. Depending on the variac inductance you will have to experiment to determine the proper capacitance to achieve the nominal 60 Hz center frequency. I built one of these for my spark gap Tesla coil to adjust the phase powering the rotary spark gap motor. Do a search for "John Freau phase shifter" to see a simple schematic.
15
« on: April 10, 2024, 10:31:31 PM »
The answers to that question are wide-ranging and would encompass an entire academic study which has never been done. In general, I would advise the following.
I wouldn't touch any Tesla coil streamer if it has an output power of more than a few watts. Those small Tesla coils which you see on E-Bay and plasma globes are OK. Even for larger coils, you may not feel much but the current is passing through your body. You don't have much sensation of pain because nerve cells do not respond very well to high frequency current. The current will also follow the paths of least resistance such as blood vessels and nerve fibers. Don't believe the skin effect myth that you may read about. The skin effect is only significant for excellent conductors such as copper. For a poor conductor such as the human body, the skin depth essentially extends through your entire body. The current flowing through your body heats internal organs, with the heating depending on the power level.
In my opinion, its just not worth risking your health just to demonstrate that streamers can strike your hand with no apparent effect. You are essentially experimenting with yourself. Would you feel comfortable with using your body as a wire? In effect, that is what you would be doing. Nerve damage can take years to manifest itself.
16
« on: April 06, 2024, 05:22:06 AM »
Looks great. You have to experiment with the number of turns and the capacitance. I would start with 5+5. What kind of output do you get?
17
« on: April 02, 2024, 09:51:26 PM »
If indeed what you are seeking is information on transformer resonant frequency capacitor size, JAVATC provides an estimate. Its called "Resonant Cap Size" and is located in the "Power Calculations" output section. If you are using a NST, you don't want your primary tank circuit capacitor to be close to this value otherwise transformer damage can occur.
18
« on: April 01, 2024, 04:03:47 PM »
Glad to hear that you got it running. I had to add an acrylic spark shield to the top of my grid feedback coil because I was getting arcing between it and the top of the secondary coil.
19
« on: March 31, 2024, 04:09:52 PM »
Bad tubes are always a possibility, especially if bought used. My first 833A was weak even though the filament glowed. I finally bought a NOS Ampex 833A and later a matched pair of NOS 833C tubes. Its always best to have two tubes on hand so that you can swap them out for testing. NOS 833A or 833C tubes aren't cheap though.
20
« on: March 31, 2024, 05:40:44 AM »
I think that your primary circuit capacitance is too small. You won't have enough turns on the primary coil to tune it with your secondary circuit. For the number of turns on your primary coil, you probably want around 2 nF in order to tune it with your primary coil inductance and secondary coil size. For a sanity check, use JAVATC to confirm that you can achieve resonance on the primary and secondary circuits with your design parameters. Remember to add a few extra turns for tuning due to inaccuracies. Running out of tuning turns is very inconvenient. You can ignore the spark gap portions of JAVATC.
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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Mads Barnkob April 18, 2024, 08:50:49 PM
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Re: 100kHz CM300 gate resistor choice
[Dual Resonant Solid State Tesla coils (DRSSTC)]
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unrealcrafter2 April 18, 2024, 08:11:27 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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davekni April 18, 2024, 07:28:05 PM
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Re: How to get a GE Yokogawa AB40 Sync Scope to rotate without a powerplant.
[Laboratories, Equipment and Tools]
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Bobakman April 18, 2024, 06:30:30 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 06:03:57 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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Michelle_ April 18, 2024, 05:26:13 PM
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Re: Small-ish 3D printed SGTC via cheap ZVS flyback build, humbly asking a couple ?s
[Spark Gap Tesla Coils (SGTC)]
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NyaaX_X April 18, 2024, 04:03:38 PM
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