More induction heating

[Alberto]

Fuuuuuudge....


First of all, thank you again both of you for the advice, I knew it was a good idea to ask here before conecting it.

 I´ll use it only to heat getters, maybe 30 seconds long, i don´t know if that infromation matters.

The capacitors are linked with 2,5mm diameter copper wire. Removing all of them and resoldering in other support would be a PITA because now the legs are too short. I´m not sure if I have understood well, but a possible solution would be conct the ends of the bus in the other side?



I mean, close the llops and connect the induction coil to A and B? With no too much wire to stay close?

[klugesmith]

>> I mean, close the loops and connect the induction coil to A and B? With no too much wire to stay close?

Yes, as Dave said.   That gets you most of the possible improvement, with very little work.

[Alberto]

Thank you for your answer. Ok, I link the loops and the heater works, but cant get red hot the loop of titanium wire...




veeeery disappointing, until I tried spot welding the loop, and now is HOT AS HELL BABY!!! The problem was the loop of titanium has to have a good conection in the joint.

If any of you are ever in the south of Spain and need something induction heated, or a beer, you can count with me!

The mosfets or the chockes don´t get any warm. The 100ohm resistors are 5wats (ceramic) and get hot. The capacitors and the bus a little bit hot. But the coil gets veeeery hot. First I connect the 19volts power supply and then I set the main power supply at 34 volts and when I connet it the voltage drops to 20 volts and drain 11 amps. Now I´ll try with different coils, maybe with copper tubing. If I´m right, the high frequency produces skin effect and doesn´t matter very much if the tube is hollow right?

[Alberto]

Hi again. Reading the message of the guy of the video, his induction heater drains 7 amps at 35votls. What could be the reason for mi draining 11 amps at 20 volts?