Author Topic: Watercooling  (Read 868 times)

Offline flyingperson23

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Watercooling
« on: April 28, 2024, 07:13:48 AM »
After running my big coil, I noticed lots of thermal warping and discoloration on the inner turns of the primary. I've never messed with watercooling before, but I'm told it can be really annoying, especially concerning long term storage and corrosion prevention. For those of you with watercooled coils, do you recommend it? Or should I just put a box fan next to the primary

Offline Benjamin Lockhart

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2024, 07:18:27 AM »
I also got some discoloration on the inner turns of my big coil before adding watercooling. I definitely recommend it! I did try running compressed air into the inside turn but it did almost nothing. Water is the way to go. Maybe don't use an aluminum radiator due to the dissimilar metals.
« Last Edit: April 28, 2024, 07:26:14 AM by Benjamin Lockhart »

Offline flyingperson23

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2024, 07:39:32 AM »
Forgot to add those before - this all happened over the course of maybe an hour

Offline davekni

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2024, 04:25:55 AM »
Quote
Or should I just put a box fan next to the primary
Quote
I did try running compressed air into the inside turn but it did almost nothing.
Haven't tried compressed air, but it would be difficult to get enough air flow to be effective.  I did add a pair of 120mm fans blowing up at my DRSSTC primary from opposite sides.  Definitely helps, though probably not as much as water cooling would.  Might be sufficient if your mechanical design allows for air flow from below primary.  I added copper shielding over fan motors and initial bit of lead wiring to prevent internal motor electronics from getting confused by primary magnetic field.  (My primary is litz wire, so no reasonable water cooling option.)
David Knierim

Offline Michelle_

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2024, 05:52:20 PM »
I'm assuming by "water cooling" you mean some kind of coolant solution? I would recommend finding coolant that is compatible with copper as well as your radiator, it will improve the heat capacity and limit corrosion and therefore maintenance intervals. It's actually not difficult to get/make flared fittings for copper tubes but as for what effect it has on the electrical properties I can't say.

Offline Benjamin Lockhart

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2024, 07:16:09 PM »
No, I'm just using straight tap water. The difference in primary coil temperature is tremendous vs no cooling.

Offline Michelle_

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2024, 07:28:52 PM »
No, I'm just using straight tap water. The difference in primary coil temperature is tremendous vs no cooling.

You can do that but there's a reason people don't use tap water in cooling systems in cars in machines, I think you would get better performance and less corrosion using coolant or even distilled water. Just a suggestion but for this application I don't know how much it matters.

Offline flyingperson23

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2024, 08:46:32 PM »
I haven't heard of anyone using coolant, just tap or distilled water. Corrosion shouldn't be an issue with a copper radiator.

Offline Hydron

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2024, 10:51:05 PM »
if you run open loop water cooling from a garden hose or something, surely you can just blow out any remaining water with compressed air or something once done and just ignore any corrosion? Not like many coils run for substantial amounts of time.

Offline Michelle_

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2024, 11:00:12 PM »
if you run open loop water cooling from a garden hose or something, surely you can just blow out any remaining water with compressed air or something once done and just ignore any corrosion? Not like many coils run for substantial amounts of time.

You can do it lol, don't mind me I'm an engineer and I've worked on cooling systems, I agree with you guys that for this application corrosion and performance of the heat transfer aren't going to be critical, but over time you could possibly get pitting or residue.

Offline Hydron

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2024, 09:09:57 AM »
Oh for sure not saying that's the right way to do it, more thinking about what the quick and dirty minimal modification options are for testing at least.

Keeping corrosion and conductivity down may be pretty important for closed loop systems given the voltage on the primary. Having a long enough pipe is probably sufficient for open loop.

Offline Michelle_

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2024, 05:53:47 PM »
Oh for sure not saying that's the right way to do it, more thinking about what the quick and dirty minimal modification options are for testing at least.

Keeping corrosion and conductivity down may be pretty important for closed loop systems given the voltage on the primary. Having a long enough pipe is probably sufficient for open loop.

Yeah that would work well for seeing if it works or not and wouldn't cause long term damage. For a closed loop system I would recommend something like an automotive transmission cooler with a 12v fan and a small 12v water pump, and liquid dielectric coolant (often used for cooling battery systems, if it leaks it won't do anything to your electronics unless it's gotten highly contaminated). Some of these coolants are actually used for immersion so if you really wanted to you could probably plumb through the primary into a sealed enclosure with all of the electronics driving the coil in the closed system and cool all of it, I know that sounds crazy and such a system would probably cost as much as people's entire tesla coil builds lol.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2024, 05:56:08 PM by Michelle_ »

Offline Mads Barnkob

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2024, 07:26:03 PM »
I remember Steve Ward telling about his water cooling experiences.

- Distilled water will get contaminated pretty fast, there is no real advantage over tap water.
- Tap water in a bucket, with a 230VAC pump in, has a sufficiently high enough impedance to run through the primary circuit, without any issues.
- A normal sized bucket of water will last long enough for playing some MIDI files, before being luke warm to the touch.
- You can easily change bucket, not so easy in closed loop.

My own thoughts
- You can blow compressed air through when done, to avoid corrosion, maybe add a few drops of oil.
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Offline flyingperson23

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2024, 03:21:51 AM »
Anyone have pump suggestions? I got an Amazon "transfer pump" which works great but gets really hot after running for a few minutes


Offline flyingperson23

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2024, 04:30:18 AM »
Ok, just ordered that one and parts for a closed loop. Thanks!

Offline Felix B.

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2024, 04:04:14 PM »
Hi,

on my big coil I use a very cheap PC watercooling system with PVC tubing, zipties, a 10$ 12V pump and 2x240mm watercooling radiators. I filled it up with destilled water and a lot of silicate antifreeze used for car radiators to prevent corrosion. I only changed the cooling liquid once since I built the coil 2 years ago and it's been working great ever since with no visible corrosion.

Hope that helps. :)
Felix

Offline acobaugh

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2024, 11:13:48 PM »
I run 50/50 distilled water and prestone "low-tox" antifreeze, and the coil is stored in an unheated shop all year round in central PA. I haven't changed the coolant since mid-2020 and I've never noticed any issues. 3/8" copper refrigerant tubing, pvc hookup tubing, plastic reservoir, cheap 12vdc pump, and an aluminum radiator. It's mostly sealed from the environment, except for a small pinhole in the cap for the reservoir to allow for expansion/changes in fluid levels. I also have the radiator tied to a single point ground, just in case there are any stray currents from the primary coil

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Re: Watercooling
« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2024, 11:13:48 PM »

 


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