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Messages - leadinglights
Pages: [1]
1
« on: May 22, 2017, 05:44:41 PM »
It is the wonderful Metcal RF heated soldering irons that made me think that induction heating may be worth looking at, even the best super quick resistive soldering irons take much longer to get up to heat.
Mike
2
« on: May 22, 2017, 02:28:48 PM »
I agree that a well designed resistive heater with a good thermal reservior and proportional control would be hard to better. Having said that, the makers on the RepRap community are forced to use available materials and components - typicaly a resistor or heater element mounted in a rectangular brass or aluminium block. Commercial versions are available but these are copies of those evolved within the community. Most improved methods that I have been able to think up have needed facilities such as the ability to sinter alumina on to a nichrome element - generally unavailable to the back room tinkerer. It is just within the bounds of possibility that an inductively heated nozzle would be a more practical option. Plus inductive heating is much cooler Sectioned view below shows one of my hotends with a copper block and air delivered near the nozzle tip. When there is maximum plastic flow and cooling near the time the temperature of the plastic can easily be 8C lower than at lower flows. Also a possible view of the new induction heated version. Dark grey material within the coil is carbon steel or feritic stainless steel, lighter grey is austenitic stainless steel Mike
3
« on: May 20, 2017, 11:19:17 AM »
I am trying to make a very small induction heater to replace a resistive heater which delivers between 20W to 40W. This should be a simple problem but one principle need is for the heater circuit to be as small and light as possible. I will fill in the details of where this is to be used at the end of this message, but at the moment the questions are:-
Are there any very good tank capacitors in physically small sizes? While I can work out the voltage across the capacitors from high school physics and can work out de-rating for frequency and temperature from datasheets, there seems to be little consistent information on how to determine the necessary voltage rating in the real world. Are there any good general rules for this? Temperature control would be easiest by switching on and off the induction heater circuit and the existing use involves switching a resistor at several times per second. Would doing this with an induction heater lead to white smoke and bitter disappointment? In several of the smallest oscillator circuits the tank is fed from the +ve supply through two ferrite cored inductors. Are there equivalent to matching inductors? Would there be any problem having approximately one meter of wire between each inductor and the tank?
Details of why I need the small size. This is to be used to replace a resistive heater in the plastic extruder (hotend) of a 3D printer. The temperature at which the plastic is laid onto the print can vary by as much as 8C in a couple of millimeters during a print. It is my hope that an induction heater will be able to deliver a controllable temperature to the very tip of the extruder. As the hotend moves quite fanst and changes direction frequently it is very desirable to keep the moving mass as small as possible.
There is some discussion on the RepRap forum along with a CAD impression of the heater (I haven't yet succeeded in putting a picture in this forum)
Mike
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