Recent Posts

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1
This is the first video in a series of 3, on how to get started with the UD3.1b Tesla coil driver, FiberNet and TeslaTerm.

I love you all for the great work!

2
Great. I'm not saying 1/4 inch is wrong here but a few weeks back I buttoned up
a small coil with primary current of ~200amps and 3/32" copper tubing. Worked great.

One disadvantage of having the connection and wire come out from the top makes
secondary strikes to the primary more likely. Not only does it reduce the primary to
topload distance it also introduces sharp edges rhat encourage flashover.

In my limited experience tesla coils are all about screwing up so be prepared...

Cheers.

I wonder if I can make the adjustable connection an insulated wire that runs on top of the primary and stays inside the groove but then keeps following the spiral to the outside then goes down through an exit hole at the end similar to how the beginning of the primary is run through a hole at the start of the spiral. Then I can always have the top covered but still open it to adjust it. The connector will be trickier to make but it should be possible with the 1/8 tube.
3
Great. I'm not saying 1/4 inch is wrong here but a few weeks back I buttoned up
a small coil with primary current of ~200amps and 3/32" copper tubing. Worked great.

One disadvantage of having the connection and wire come out from the top makes
secondary strikes to the primary more likely. Not only does it reduce the primary to
topload distance it also introduces sharp edges rhat encourage flashover.

In my limited experience tesla coils are all about screwing up so be prepared...

Cheers.
4
This video shows exactly what I am hoping to accomplish by rotation of the needle. I want to be able to rotate it in both directions Fast/Slow as in the video.
He is using rather large oscillators in the video though.


Bob

<iframe width="321" height="570" src="
title="Synchroscope operation with Frequency change" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>
5
I thought that you just wanted the ability to change the output needle position according to some user-adjustable control. For that case, the "John Freau phase shifter" may work because you only need an adjustable phase shift with a 60 Hz frequency. However, if you want to see the needle rotate then you need some small frequency adjustment as others have stated. And as others have stated, some sort of inverter with 120 volt output is probably the most logical way to do it. I have seen "true sine wave" inverters for sale but they aren't cheap. I'm not sure if a conventional PWM (square wave) output inverter will work. You would just have to try one. In either case, you would then need a way to slightly adjust the output frequency of the inverter since they are designed to be fixed at 60 Hz. Depending on the method used to generate the 60 Hz output perhaps you could possibly hack into the circuitry to provide a way to adjust the output frequency slightly. I am not hopeful of that because I think that the output frequency is tied directly to the input frequency.

If the meter will operate properly with a PWM output inverter, you could use a single phase of the 3-phase output of a VFD. These commonly provide a way for the user to adjust the output frequency with a knob, either built-in or externally supplied. 240 volt single phase input VFDs with 240 volt 3-phase output are commonly available. I use one to control my lathe. I can adjust the output frequency with a knob. There may be a 120 volt VFD available but I don't know. If this would work I have seen small cheap Chinese VFDs on E-Bay for less than $100.
6
Could we also say flybacks driven with ZVS are 50% slower in their pulsing rate as the diodes prevent HV output leading to spark the other way? This in comparison with a ferrite wound HV coil with two output leads. Such images were posted by Alberto a few messages above.

What Mads Banrkob taught us (big thanks for that dude!) flybacks give a fast positive sawtooth signal and pack their magnetic potential during other negative phasé in the air core. This positive  is the only intense pulse it gives off and the other
way we might gain a kiloVolt or so only negative potential.
7
Looks great.

I'd wonder about making contact to the primary ring for tuning. From the top you have to get
down into that narrow canyon. From the bottom cutting holes...

Not a criticism just curious...

Cheers.

Yeah that's a good question, what I intend to do is basically make a metal P-clamp into a 90 degree connector that mates to an insulated wire using a 3d printed housing (if that makes any sense). I'll post it after I design it. I was going to drill through the bottom once tuning is established then cover the top. Also the grooves are big enough for 1/4" tubing but I was thinking about trying the 1/8" tubing first which will give me more room to make the insulated connector. It didn't seem to make a big difference in javaTC whether it was 1/8" or 1/4" and considering the relatively small amount of power I'm going to use and the skin effect, I am not convinced 1/8" will be too small but I don't know. I'm trying not to screw this up but this is the first tesla coil I've ever built unless you count the slayer exciter.
8
Here is the waveform of my Dewalt Battery powered inverter the frequency in the image is 60HZ but it was actually bouncing around usually in the 80HZ range then back to 60HZ I guess frequency control or lack of is what it is in such an inexpensive device.
Bob

9
Looks great.

I'd wonder about making contact to the primary ring for tuning. From the top you have to get
down into that narrow canyon. From the bottom cutting holes...

Not a criticism just curious...

Cheers.
10
I'm not sure exactly how I feel about this, the proportions look a bit strange but the numbers all look good and I'm fairly sure there won't be any arcing between the primary coils or the primary and the secondary base junction lol. I'm going to have a lower deck beneath the primary holding deck that is on standoffs, and since it's so big (14" OD) I'm pretty sure I can fit all of the electronics in there including a PSU and a spark gap with a fan, etc... There's room to expand and add a bigger secondary for sure. Unfortunately I will need to split the primary holder into multiple pieces to print it but whatever. I'll probably add a vertical breakout point to the top of the toroid as well as a strike ring that will mount onto where the 5 standoff holes are, and ground it through one of the standoffs. I don't know if the primary needs to be as wide as it is or have extra turns (this has 7 full turns for potential tuning) but I'm afraid of the 24KV input voltage arcing across it so I have 1/2" spacing between primary windings with the depth of the winding hole also 1/2".
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